We were making great memories thus far on our father/son trip to Argentina, including visits to Buenos Aires and Iguazu National Park. And there was so much more to come! After 2 nights at the Sheraton Iguazu Resort & Spa, we made our way back to the nearby Cataratas del Iguazu Airport for the flight to Mendoza, again traveling on Aerolineas Argentinas. Unfortunately, there are no direct flights available between these 2 cities so we had to book a flight back to the Jorge Newberry Airport in Buenos Aires and then make an onward connection to Mendoza. But it didn’t present any problem as both flights were on time. We landed right about 5:15pm after enjoying the beverage and snack service made available to us as Business Class passengers on both legs.
Mendoza is by far the largest wine region in Argentina. It’s located on a high-altitude plateau at the eastern edge of the Andes Mountains and is responsible for roughly 70 per cent of the country’s annual wine production. Vineyards here are planted at some of the highest altitudes in the world with the average site located some 2,000 to 3,000 feet above sea level. Malbec is the region’s most celebrated grape. Its rise to international fame began in the early 2000s when the nation’s political and economic situation stabilized long enough for the wineries to again begin investing in improvements. Since the 2005 vintage, several producers have garnered top scores for their Malbec wines. The varietal is now recommended by sommeliers everywhere and can be found on restaurant wine lists throughout the world. Lucky us. We had 2 days to discover what all the fuss was about!
The Park Hyatt Mendoza was to be our home for the next few nights. It sports a magnificent 20th Century French academy neoclassical facade. This 5-Star hotel is located right in the city center and only 15 minutes (5 miles) from the Governor Francisco Gabrielli International Airport. With its 186 guest rooms and suites, the Park Hyatt is also fairly close to most of the region’s important vineyards and wineries. A range of dining options are available to guests, from the Bistro M with its wood-burning oven and open kitchen serving regional favorites all day long to Las Terrazas de la Plaza. This cafe extends from the lobby all the way to the expansive terrace out front and is the perfect spot for coffee, cocktails or a quick snack. The exclusive Grill Q - Parrilla Argentina is open for lunch and dinner and offers traditional grilled meat dishes and tasty empanadas.
We were upgraded at check-in to the Governor’s Suite, a spacious and lovely 1,400 square-foot space with a separate living room and dining area furnished in a rather minimalist but attractive decor. The parlor had great views overlooking the city and the nearby mountains and featured an oversized work desk, 2 sofas and a few comfortable chairs along with a 49-inch Smart TV, an in-room safe and a minibar. The marble bathroom housed a walk-in shower and separate tub. We also received free Wi-Fi internet access and evening turndown service. Everyone at the Park Hyatt was super friendly and helpful, even the General Manager who, it turns out, was traveling to Buenos Aires and offered to personally retrieve the sports jacket I’d left behind in the hall closet at the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt. How's that for service with a smile?
After breakfast the following morning, we stopped by the concierge desk to book several winery tours and arrange transportation. Our first stop was the Bella Vista Estate in a small town on the outskirts of the city called Lujan de Cuyo which is on the south bank of the Mendoza River. This is where the Archaval Ferrer Bodega receives visitors for tastings and conducts winery tours. Grapes are harvested by hand in the early morning hours at this boutique winery that was established in 1998. They’re one of Argentina’s top producers and make a number of high quality, single vineyard Malbecs. They also produce a wine called Quimera, a Bordeaux blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and, in some years, they bottle a Cabernet Franc and a Petite Verdot. Attention to detail is evident at Archaval Ferrer. For example, in case of occasional hail damage, the affected grapes are promptly removed from the vines to keep bitterness at bay in the final product. These practices, as well as others such as the low density of vines, keeps production low but quality high, as evidenced by their consistently superior ratings in Wine Spectator. We were the only 2 people on the tour that morning and enjoyed a private tasting as well. It doesn't get much better than that!
Bodega Lagarde was next on our itinerary. They’ve been in business since 1897, making them one of the oldest wineries in Mendoza. A manor house on the grounds dating back to the 1800s serve as the setting for Restaurant Fogon where we stopped for lunch. Surrounded by century-old Malbec vines, the unique, natural setting enhances the dining experience. Patrons are given a choice of dining next to the tranquil outdoor garden surrounded by the lush vineyards or the option of eating inside with great views of the vineyards. The chef designs a new menu every season which takes advantage of the local cooking techniques using direct flame and adobe ovens. Recipes are based on local Mendoza cuisine that has a heavy Italian influence. We enjoyed a 4-course lunch, paired with Lagarde wines, that highlighted the seasonally fresh ingredients picked directly from their private garden.
Trapiche was the third and final winery we visited that day. We learned they’re the largest producers of wine in the country and were first established in1883. Trapiche now consists of nearly 2,500 acres spread across a number of Mendoza vineyards. They were named the “Argentine Wine Producer of the Year” in both 2004 and 2008 as part of the International Wine and Spirit Competition. Their wines are frequently included among Wine and Spirits Magazine's “ Value Brands of the Year“ and that publication’s further complimented by them by noting, “It’s wines like Trapiche that have given Argentina a name for value." The label’s best known for its inexpensive varietal wines, including Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Trapiche also sells a yearly set of single-vineyard Malbecs created by Winemaker Daniel Pi as a way to show an appreciation for smaller, individual Mendoza vineyards, some of which were cited by Wine Spectator as “the best wines that Trapiche has ever produced.”
In order to better understand what happened next, you’ll need some backgroud information. Mendoza is situated in an extremely dry desert region but the city has an extensive artificial irrigation system which aids in directing the spring run off of mountain snows. Most streets have fairly wide and rather deep irrigation channels running along either side. I hadn’t noticed them before but they’re best avoided when exiting any vehicle. Unfortunately, our driver didn’t provide any such warning before we pulled up to the hotel. You guessed it. No sooner did I step out onto what I instinctively thought was the curb, than I found my left leg abruptly sinking roughly 3 feet - right into the bottom of the ditch! That’ll jump start your heart. While my son found this pretty amusing initially, I ended up wrenching my back out which was fairly painful and often uncomfortable for a time. However, I survived and we later experienced a bizarre (to us) local phenomena while walking to a restaurant for dinner that evening - a Zonda wind! This is the term used to describe the strong, warm dry winds (usually carrying the desert dust) that occur on the Eastern slopes of the Andes Mountains. Small branches and tree limbs were flying through the air and we had to shield our faces from the dust and debris as we walked along the street. But I knew enough by then to avoid those damned irrigation channels.
The Park Hyatt graciously granted us a late check the next day as our return flight to Buenos Aires wasn’t scheduled until early evening. This gave us the perfect opportunity to visit one more winery and we soon found ourselves at the Familia Cecchin Bodega. This is another small family business and we were given a friendly and detailed tour of their operations. The 185-acre certified organic winery prides itself on keeping alive a long-standing family tradition of doing things by hand. The tour was informative and gave us an opportunity to see the vines, grapes and aging barrels. But there was more to come! We were also treated to a delicious meal and sampled some very-drinkable Malbec in their quaint and very unique outdoor restaurant. This was the perfect way to spend what we thought would be our final day in the city.
After check out, we taxied over to the nearby Mendoza Airport for the 2-hour flight to Buenos Aires. From the capital city we planned to connect to American’s late night flight back to Miami. Everything looked quite normal when the cab dropped us off outside the small terminal. But when we stepped inside, we encountered hundreds of people, all jammed together as far as the eye could see. No one was moving and the air was thick with the sounds of countless raised and angry Spanish voices. What the heck was going on? ’ll tell you all about it in a future post.
Until next time…stay safe.
Now, George, finding your leg almost amputated by the irrigation channel could have had nothing to do with the visit to 3 vineyards earlier in the day, ... could it? Sounds like you had a blast!
Wine tours what gets better than that!!