It was very late at night when I was cleared by an Indian Immigration Officer after landing at the Mumbai International Airport (BOM) following my SWISS Air flight from Zurich. Everyone entering India must then pass through a customs check with their luggage in tow. Since I had nothing to declare, I passed through the Green Channel and followed the signs to the Arrivals Hall. Having heard all the horror stories about taxi scammers operating at the airport, I was happy to connect with my driver who transported me to the Grand Hyatt Hotel in style with a luxury Mercedes Benz S Class. It was a short, but very comfortable ride of less than ten minutes and, if I weren't so tired after two days of travel, I would have been sorry it was over.
The Grand Hyatt Mumbai was a wonderful property. Situated in the heart of the city, the Hyatt offers luxurious contemporary accommodations, several award-winning dining options, a spa, fitness center and extensive meeting spaces, within easy reach of the airport and the Bandra Kurla Complex, a major business hub. The hotel's notable features include spacious rooms with modern decor, a large pool, and various on-site restaurants like Celini for Italian cuisine and Soma, serving Indian fare. With only a few other late-night arrivals, check in was rather quick. My 441 square-foot room had a king bed as well as a private outdoor patio, a 40” LED television and an in-room safe. It also featured complimentary WI-fi. The bathroom had a walk-in shower and bathtub along with branded bathroom toiletries. At check-in, I was granted access to the Grand Club, an exclusive lounge with sophisticated decor and comfortable seating. I found it to be a refined space in which to relax, and appreciated the complimentary breakfast buffet, all-day refreshments and evening cocktails with canapés. The club also had a dedicated staff, work areas and meeting rooms available for private use.
Like all larger cities in India, Mumbai has its share of traffic issues. The traffic is characterized by extreme congestion, particularly during peak hours, with a complex network of vehicles including cars, buses, rickshaws, and pedestrians often navigating narrow roads. This leads to frequent gridlocks, unpredictable delays, and high levels of vehicle density across major arteries and the city center. This chaotic pattern is further amplified by a combination of factors like heavy vehicle volume, poor road infrastructure, and inconsistent traffic signal timings, making it one of the most densely packed urban traffic environments in the world.
Besides the helter-skelter traffic, there’s another aspect of driving in India that is anathema to western motorists. Indian drivers honk their horns constantly. It’s caused by their heavily congested roadways, unpredictable traffic with hoards of pedestrians, cyclists and animals. It’s also culturally accepted to use the horn to communicate their presence and intent, and sometimes even as a way to navigate tight spaces where side mirrors may not be sufficient. Essentially, the horn acts as a “heads up” to other drivers, rather than what we perceive as an expression of anger. But, so many drivers honking so many horns at one time in one locale produces a cacophony of noise that’s often overwhelming.
At the end of business each afternoon I relished the opportunity to explore this boisterous and fascinating city. One of the most impressive sites my hosts took me to was the Gateway of India. This majestic monument stands as a symbol of the city’s colonial past and represents a significant historical landmark, marking the arrival of British royalty in India and built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. It’s constructed from yellow basalt stone and concrete and stands at a height of 85 feet. The arched structure with a central dome features intricate carvings and overlooks the Arabian Sea. Its architecture blends Indian and Islamic motifs with British design elements, including intricate stone latticework. The Gateway of India was designed by Scottish architect George Wittet. Construction took 13 years to complete, with the foundation stone laid in 1911 and the structure finished in 1924. Every year Mumbai welcomes almost six million tourists and the Gateway is one of their most visited destinations.
Another popular attraction is Marine Drive, a nearly two and a half mile-long promenade and iconic landmark. It’s a scenic spot with views of the Arabian Sea and a number of Art Deco structures listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the Soona Mahal, an Art Deco palace built in 1937. Marine Drive is also known as the “Queen’s Necklace” because of the way the street lights look like a string of pearls when viewed from above at night. The Locals really take to Marine Drive and I spotted any number walking, jogging, savoring the sea breeze or simply watching the sunset and enjoying street food with their families. Marine Drive was built on reclaimed land as part of the Back Bay Reclamation Project, which was first proposed as a British Government project to expand the city westward in 1860. It now hosts a number of city-wide festivals, including the Mumbai Marathon and the Malabar Hill Music Festival.
Since my SWISS flight back to Zurich wasn’t scheduled for departure until 1:20 in the morning, I had ample time to enjoy one of the city’s best-known eateries on my last evening - the Bombay Canteen. This vibrant restaurant and bar showcased the diversity of Indian cuisine through what might be considered a modern lens. It successfully reinterpreted traditional recipes with contemporary cooking methods aided by seasonal ingredients, all while maintaining a warm and inviting atmosphere reminiscent of a classic “canteen.” I had to agree with my hosts who told me about the good food. It was a very popular establishment for locals and discerning visitors alike seeking an elevated yet relaxed dining experience.
My flight to Zurich and the onward journey to Chicago were both exceptional. The spacious and luxurious SWISS First Class cabin contributed to a very refined travel experience. Their high-quality gourmet dining with a focus on regional Swiss cuisine, combined with the excellent and top-notch customer service, made the two long-haul flights thoroughly enjoyable.
Until next time…safe travels.
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