Readers of this post will know of our affinity for Italy and so I’d like to share with you some of the highlights of a trip to Rome we enjoyed a few years ago. On this occasion, we began our travels at the Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD) and flew initially to Frankfurt on a United Airlines Boeing 777-200, back when the carrier still offered an International First Class product. There were only eight seats in the United Polaris Global First forward cabin, consisting of two rows in a 1-2-1 configuration. The seats were roomy, plush and good for sleeping, with a great deal of legroom and ample storage for laptops. After a warm welcome from our purser we enjoyed a pre-departure glass of champagne and were soon airborne on this late-afternoon flight that departed at 5:20 PM. After takeoff, cocktails were offered along with warm mixed nuts and canapés consisting of Brie, Dried Strawberry and Mango. Next came a chilled appetizer of Smoked Salmon, Pickled Beets and Capers. We enjoyed a Porcini Mushroom Soup before a Salad of Mixed Greens, Tomato, Papaya and Sunflower Seed served with a choice of dressing and assorted breads. Five different entrées were offered and I selected the Roasted Rack of Lamb with Mint-Demi Glacé, Anna Potatoes and Green Beans. This culinary extravaganza was topped off with an assortment of International Cheeses, served with Grapes, Crackers and Port and United’s famous Signature Ice Cream Sundae with Chocolate Sauce and Whipped Cream. I had no trouble falling asleep and skipped the breakfast service, having just enough time to freshen up before our landing in Germany around 7:30 AM the following morning.
Lufthansa calls Frankfurt its largest hub airport, boasting four Business Class lounges. As a Star Alliance Gold member traveling on one of their flights, we were entitled to use the Senator Lounge near Gate A50. A simple scan of our boarding passes was all that was required for entry. A variety of seating options were offered, including several dining tables and high-tops, as well as a number of recliners. Once we located two seats, I sampled a few of the breakfast buffet items, along with some coffee and juice before heading out for our final leg of the day. This one was aboard a Lufthansa Airbus A321 aircraft, which was scheduled to board at 12:20 PM from Gate A56, just a short walk from the Senator Lounge. On intra-European flights, business class simply consists of economy seats with a blocked middle seat. As a result, the size of the cabin can be adjusted based upon demand. Our seats were Row 2, A and C on the port side of the aircraft. We departed on time for this one hour and 50-minute flight and the inflight service began with drinks about 10 minutes after takeoff. The menu included Beetroot Potato Terrine with Smoked Salmon, Trout, Cucumber and Creamy Egg Yolk, along with Whole-grain and Semoline Mousse with Elderflower Jelly, Cassis Quenelle, and Yogurt Sponge. Lufthansa sure seems to love its elderflower. I might have seen this on the menu a handful of times in my life but nearly always on the German carrier. We touched down on time at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport around 3 in the afternoon.
We were booked into the Westin Excelsior Hotel and arrived after a 30-minute taxi ride costing about €50. This Beaux Arts property has had a prime location on the celebrated Via Veneto since 1906, and was made famous by Federico Fellini’s 1960 movie “La Dolce Vita.” The elegant hotel, rebranded by Westin several years ago, has hosted celebrities and statesmen over the years, The hotel features 281 rooms and 35 unique Signature Suites, and also has the distinction of having the largest suite in Europe, the nearly 12,000 square foot Villa La Cupola. Unfortunately, we did not stay in that suite but secured a very nice 377 square-foot Deluxe King guest room, featuring an in-room safe and a writing desk with plenty of outlets. It even had a printer! The marble bath had a shower/tub combination as well as a bidet. While there was no Concierge Lounge available at this hotel, the Doney Restaurant and Café overlooking the Via Veneto served a hearty breakfast each day beginning at 7:00 AM.
One of our favorite spots to visit whenever we’re lucky to be back in Rome is the beautiful Trevi Fountain. Prior to the construction of this Baroque masterpiece, another fountain dating back to Roman times existed in its place. In 1629 Pope Urban VIII concluded the fountain was insufficient so he commissioned Italian architect, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who is widely considered the master of the Italian Baroque, to sketch some renovation ideas. However, following the Pope’s death in 1744, the plans were never bought to life, though some of Bernini’s touches can be seen on the fountain today. It wasn’t until 1730 that work began on the fountain after Italian architect Nicola Salvi won the re-design contest held by Pope Clement XII. Using local Travertine stone, the same material used in the construction of the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain slowly began to take shape, with intricate detail carved into every section and sculpture. Unfortunately, Salvi didn’t live to see the finished piece, but with the help of four sculptors and architect Giuseppe Pannini, Trevi Fountain was completed 30 years later in 1762. It’s a long-standing tradition to throw a coin into the fountain, keeping your eyes closed and throwing the coin into the water over your left shoulder using your right hand. According to legend, the person who throws the coin will one day return to Rome. It’s a popular tradition and the fountain receives as much as €3,000 per day Every week, the Municipality of Rome cleans the fountain, donating a large portion of the annual €1.5 million proceeds to a local charity helping less fortunate families.
Of course, no visit to Rome would be complete without seeing Saint Peter’s Basilica, one of the largest buildings in the world. It’s located in Vatican City and is the universal headquarters of the Catholic Church as well as the Pope's residence. With its exceptional height and beautiful design, the Dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica unmistakably marks the skyline of Rome. Designed by none other than Michelangelo, the dome is considered his spiritual testament: he didn’t want to be paid for this last work as he intended it as a gift for the Church. Upon entering the basilica, you can’t help but be overwhelmed by the building’s sheer grandeur, but once you adjust to the vastness of this immense church, the first thing that catches your eye is the huge bronze canopy at the end of the nave. Also designed by Bernini, the canopy is meant to highlight the main altar, reserved only for the Pope himself. A virtual treasure trove of acclaimed art, Saint Peter’s is also home to Michelangelo’s most touching work, the Pietå. Sculpted of Carrara marble, it depicts the Virgin Mary gently holding the lifeless body of Jesus in her lap with great composure and tenderness. In only two years, then 23-year-old Michelangelo was able to create a work that remains even today an unparalleled masterpiece.
The nearby Vatican Museums are another must-see attraction and we were fortunate to hire an excellent licensed private guide. The advantage to splurging like this, aside from their knowledge of the museum and its contents, is to avoid the hours-long wait times for admission. These museums display works from the immense collection amassed by the Catholic Church and the papacy throughout the centuries, including several of the most well-known Roman sculptures and most important masterpieces of Renaissance art in the world. The museums contain roughly 70,000 works, of which 20,000 are on display at any one time, In 2022 alone, the Vatican Museums were visited by over 5 million people, ranking second in the list of most-visited art museums in the world, after the Louvre in Paris. (For more on the Louvre, see my post of July 30, 2022 titled Selfie With Mona.) There are 24 galleries in the Vatican Museums with the Sistine Chapel notably, being the last room visited within the museum. In addition to being one of the most beautifully decorated places in the world, the Sistine Chapel is yet another tribute to the genius of Michelangelo whose ceiling fresco covers nearly 5,000 square feet. “The Last Judgment,” painted on the altar wall by the same artist decades later, covers the second largest area of some 1,800 square feet. It was all very mesmerizing and touring this world-famous museum and appreciating its priceless art was a truly exceptional experience.
Another one of Rome’s major tourist attractions is the Colosseum, which is roughly two thousand years old. This amphitheater is a freestanding structure of stone and concrete, which seated roughly 50,000 spectators. It was the scene of thousands of hand-to-hand combats between gladiators, as well as contests between men and animals and many larger spectacles, including mock naval engagements. Contrary to popular belief, its’s uncertain if the Colosseum was the site for the martyrdom of early Christians, but in medieval times it was used as a church. Over the centuries, it was damaged by lightning and earthquakes and, even more severely, by vandalism and pollution. All the marble seats and decorative materials disappeared, as the site was treated as little more than a quarry for more than 1,000 years until preservation of the Colosseum began in earnest in the Nineteenth Century. Before departing Rome, we made sure to take in the Spanish Steps. It was the perfect place to people watch and appreciate being in a locale made famous in artwork, poetry, film and countless Instagram posts. (It's one of the most photographed places in the nation.)
We bid farewell to the Eternal City with its pretty piazzas, ancient archaeological remains, and art-laden churches, with the hope of returning someday to further enjoy its culture and captivating history.
Until next time…safe travels.
Rome - certainly a city that can burn through your schedule with so much to see and so little time to do so ... Very evocative!