L’Express d’Orient was a long-distance passenger train service from Paris to Vienna created in 1883 by Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits (CIWL). The route quickly expanded to London, Belgrade and Istanbul. Although the original Orient Express was a typical international railway journey, the name became quite famous in 1934 with the publication of “Murder on the Orient Express,” a classic detective novel by famed British author Agatha Christie. This was the decade when the Orient Express service was at its height and its most popular. It was also the time when it acquired its reputation for comfort and luxury, carrying sleeping cars with butler service and restaurant cars known for the creativity of their menus and the high quality of their cuisine. The Orient Express was patronized by the wealthy as well as royalty, nobles, diplomats, and business moguls. Unfortunately however, with the advent of the Second World War and the acceleration of passenger plane, and later jet service, ridership of the railroads declined.
During the ensuing decades, the #OrientExpress continued to evoke thoughts and images of sophistication and elegance. In 1982, the high-end Venice-Simplon Orient Express (VSOE) was relaunched to take up this mantle featuring beautifully restored, original CIWL carriages from the 1920s and ‘30s for travel from London to Venice. The private venture has received numerous accolades for its outstanding service aimed at leisure travelers and running from March through mid-November. My wife and I were visiting Venice a few years ago with a friend of ours and we made the decision to check off a “bucket list” item and take the storied train back to London and fly home from there. It was one we’ll never regret.
On our day of departure that early April we checked in at Venice’s Santa Lucia Station about 90 minutes before our scheduled departure time of 10:45 AM. The VSOE check in desk was situated opposite Platforms 1 and 2. Staff were present and efficiently assisted us with the necessary check in formalities. We even had time to avail ourselves of the pleasant lounge and enjoy a leisurely cup of coffee and small snack before boarding about 20 minutes prior to leaving Venice Station.
We booked a double compartment for the overnight trip. These private accommodations are attended by Cabin Stewards throughout the journey which assured us of attentive yet discreet service. Our compartment had its own original washbasin cabinet with hot and cold running water. Toiletries were also provided. But, as was common in its heyday, there was no en suite bathroom facilities. These were located at the end of each pullman car and and the 2 of them were shared with other guests. There never seemed to be a wait and they were always in very clean condition. Our compartment was a private lounge during the day with a banquette sofa and footstool. Facilities included a 24-hour steward service called by a bell, continental (2-pin) electric sockets (230 volts) and a 115 volt socket for razors. Overhead luggage racks were also provided for the storage of a limited amount of luggage and 2 coat hooks and 2 hangers were available for hanging up a few items.
Shortly after we settled in, a delicious lunch was served in one of the meticulously restored restaurant cars. The starter consisted of asparagus wrapped with delicately cured pork belly, accompanied by whipped bitter orange butter sauce and a parmesan wafer. The main course included a salad of fennel shavings and savory olives along with a panfried john dory fillet. The tasty fish was served with glazed zucchini and tomatoes as well as coarsely mashed potatoes with grape seed oil. Dessert was a coffee soaked biscuit charlotte with a filling of triple creme cheese, vanilla and chocolate. The wonderful lunch was enjoyed as we traveled east towards Verona and then north through the beautiful scenery of the Italian Dolomites. One of the most memorable aspects of the trip was watching the local children waving to the train as we wound our way through village after village.
Afternoon tea was served by our steward Paul in our compartment and then, several hours later, we dressed for dinner with a stop by the Bar Car first. This was a lovely space with a tuxedoed pianist playing tunes on a baby grand. Diner provides passengers with a wonderful opportunity to recreate the style of a bygone era. As a consideration for other travelers, passengers are requested to meet VSOE's minimum requirements of a suit and tie for gentlemen and an equivalent standard for ladies. My friend and I were in black tie as were many of the other diners on that evening. The bar list was extensive and we soon found ourselves sipping cocktails watching the April sunset glistening off the still snow-capped Alps in the distance. What a great memory! Dinner proved to be just as special as lunch. It began with a tuna fish trio: thinly sliced and with pistachio oil-dill flavored tartar-coated with coriander; poppy and mustard seeds and seared. This was followed by a breast of duck roasted pink and panfried “foie gras” with sour cherries. The duck was served with button artichokes sautéd with lemon thyme and breadcrumbed potatoes. A choice of fine cheeses followed and dessert was a wafer thin pancake with a filling of white chocolate, hot raspberry sauce and caramelized pistachio. I might point out that a la carte items were also offered at both lunch and dinner for those who did not wish to partake of the set menu. These included Scottish salmon, Beluga caviar with blinis, fillet of sole, or veal medallions. Fine wines, champagnes and spirits were also available at each of the sittings.
When we returned to our compartment after dinner, the upper and lower berths had already been made up and we settled in for the night. With the window open and enjoying the cool night breezes, we were soon lulled to sleep by the train's gentle undulations and the “clickety clack” of the wheels chugging along the rails. We enjoyed a restful sleep and were awakened the next morning by Paul’s knocking on our compartment door letting us know that he had our breakfast orders in hand. Our morning coffee and meal were served in our compartment as we watched the lovely countryside passing by as we traveled through Eastern France. By mid-morning we reached one of Paris’ six major rail stations, the Gare de l’Est where we stopped for approximately 30 minutes. Then we traveled northwest towards the English Channel as we enjoyed a brunch starting with scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. This was followed by broiled lobster with fresh cross butter accompanied by potato and chive whirls. A caramelized apple tartlet was the perfect dessert.
Soon after our arrival at Calais, motor coaches transferred us to the shuttle terminal at Coquelles and onwards through the Chunnel to Folkestone, England. Here, we joined the British Pullman Rail Carriages for the last leg of our journey to London. These carriages were once part of other world famous trains like the Golden Arrow and the Brighton Belle. The elegant interiors have also been painstakingly refurbished using original materials wherever possible, thereby maintaining their historic authenticity and atmosphere. The final service was a traditional English afternoon tea enjoyed with a glass of champagne. A nice selection of sandwiches were made available, along with warm scones served with clotted Devonshire cream and strawberry jam as well as a nice selection of pastries.
Our train arrived into London’s Victoria Station in the late afternoon whereupon we were met on the platform by our driver who escorted us to #TheRitzLondon. Hard as it is to fathom after all the food we enjoyed over the preceding 2 days, we actually rendezvoused with some good friends at the world famous, Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant for dinner that evening. The dining room is one of the most beautiful in the whole of Europe and the cuisine is equally as impressive. Our flight back to the States left the next day. By all accounts, it was the trip of a lifetime and one we won't ever forget!
Until next time…safe travels.
What an extraordinary journey and experience. Your attention to detail in your descriptions of your surroundings, accommodations and cuisine make one feel as if they are enjoying the trip as well. Exceptionally done!!
Salivating as I read the content of this article !...
Sounds like a trip where the weight of dollars being removed from the wallet, to pay for the experience, was only beaten by the weight added around the mid-line?