It was yet another business trip that brought me to Amsterdam, the Northern European metropolis of over one million residents. I flew in directly from the Washington Dulles International Airport on a United Airlines Boeing 777-200 which departed around 6:30 in the evening, setting down at Schiphol Airport at approximately 8:00 AM the following morning. Schiphol has traditionally been considered one of Europe’s most efficient and traveler-friendly airports, but it’s suffered from a series of operational meltdowns post pandemic. Shortages in the airport’s security and baggage handling capacity had led to hours-long wait times, causing missed and cancelled flights last summer. This prompted Schiphol to attempt to impose limits on passenger numbers to ease the chaos. But, facing pressure from the US government and the European Union, the Dutch government in mid-November cancelled its plan to cap the maximum number of flights next summer, calling the decision "a bitter pill.” That decision was a victory for the airline industry, including the Dutch subsidiary of Air France-KLM as well as both Delta and JetBlue, which had opposed the limitations and a loss for environmentalist and resident groups living near Schiphol who had supported the cap. The plan to limit the number of flights at Schiphol, one of Europe's busiest hubs, to around 450,000 flights, or 10% below 2019 levels, had primarily been driven by the desire to cut noise pollution. It had also been cheered by environmentalists as needed to reduce carbon dioxide and nitrogen emissions.
Fortunately for me, there was no such controversy afoot during my visit. I cleared Dutch Customs and Immigration in short order only encountering the usual morning crowds of international arrivals. In fact, I was on my way into the city in less than an hour after touching down. The drive into town took no more than 30 minutes and I was pleased to note the Marriott Hotel was situated in the heart of Old Amsterdam. This 11-story, Four-Star hotel boasts 392 rooms and suites. I was booked into a 269 square foot, king bed Executive Room with a separate sitting area, complimentary Wi-fi, in-room safe, soundproof windows that actually opened and plenty of electrical outlets and USB ports. The room also featured M Club Lounge access, offering complimentary continental breakfast, all-day snacks, evening hors d’oeuvres and cocktails for purchase. The Sorel’s Bar and Lounge and the Midtown Grill, one of the city’s top steakhouse restaurants, both appeared to be popular locales for business and social gatherings. The very helpful and friendly hotel staff were largely responsible for my stay being productive and memorable and I can’t say enough about their willingness to go “above and beyond” what one would normally expect.
Amsterdam is one of the most charming cities in Europe, Its storied history is reflected in its distinctive architecture and there’s no doubt its vibrant arts, dining and cultural scenes set it apart from a good many of its peers. I couldn’t wait to explore this city once business was concluded each day. Mt first stop was the Rijksmuseum, the State Museum of the Netherlands, which is among the world’s finest art museums with nearly a mile of galleries packing in about 8,000 artworks with paintings by Rembrandt, Vermeer and van Gogh, as well as other masterpieces. You could say the Rijksmuseum is the nation’s top treasure house. I found Rembrandt’s The Night Watch to be one of the most moving artworks of all. The colossal Seventeenth-Century painting measures 12 by 14 feet and is one of the most famous paintings in the world. Rembrandt was the first to depict figures in a group portrait in action, showing the civic guardsmen taking up their positions in order to march out. His manipulation of light and shadow was unprecedented and despite initial criticism, The Night Watch has become one of the most iconic Dutch paintings and a testament to his genius. The recently restored Nineteenth Century building also covers 800 years of Dutch history from 1200 to the present and cleverly displays its coveted paintings alongside objects from the era in which they were created, including sculptures, everyday objects, crafts, ship models and even pieces of furniture. My visit here was certainly time well spent.
When one thinks of Amsterdam, one thinks of the concentric canals which which mark the border of the city’s tourist center. Placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010, they form what is referred to as the "Golden Bend.” The city actually has over 160 canals, which separate Amsterdam into 90 individual islands. Those islands are connected by more than 1,700 bridges (some 1,300 more than Venice). About 80 of the bridges are in the city center and cross the UNESCO World Heritage listed Seventeenth-Century canal ring. Routinely topping the list of activities in the city was the Amsterdam Open Boat Canal Cruise with Flagship Amsterdam and so I made plans to enjoy one of these boat rides on a free afternoon and I’m so glad I did. The cruise took us through the iconic canals on an open-air boat with less than 30 persons. The one-hour experience was rather intimate and the level of service was top-notch. Our cruise had a private skipper and an English-speaking guide who knew the ins and outs of Amsterdam, even doling out local restaurant and activity recommendations on request. And while being on the water was easily among the highlights of my trip, the experience was only enhanced by the food and wine that accompanied it. As we boarded the cruise, we were greeted with a spread of Dutch cheese and unlimited beer, wine, and soft drinks. I can confirm that there’s nothing quite like sipping a glass of wine and nibbling on some cheese while passing by those stunning canal houses that line the water's edge.
We disembarked directly in front of the famous Anne Frank House. This house served as the hiding place for a Jewish girl and her family while they were attempting to elude the Nazis during World War II. Prior to being deported, Anne Frank wrote what is probably the most famous diary in the world here. After the war, the house was near collapse, but thanks to a citizens' initiative, the home that was her secret hideaway has been preserved just the way she described it in her diary entries. One inside, I noticed the lights in the rooms were dimmed, just as they were when Anne Frank's family was trying to avoid discovery. The wall has pencil marks on it, which her father drew to note his daughter's growth. There were posters of German film stars of the day, the remains of dreams like those of any teenage girl. Eight people hid packed in these very narrow confines for two years, in constant fear of being found. And the only view out was at the very top, the attic window through which Anne would peer out again and again in order to boost her spirits. Her eyes invariably fell on the big chestnut tree that still stands in the garden. On August 1, 1944, Anne made her last entry in her diary. Three days later, 25 months of seclusion ended with the arrival of the Gestapo as the group had been given up by an unknown informer, and they were arrested along with two of the Christians who had helped shelter them. Anne died from exhaustion in the infamous Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp. Her father Otto was the only family member who survived the war and published the first edition of her diary in 1947. It has since sold over 30 million copies and been translated into more than 70 languages. It has also been the subject of a Pulitzer-Prize winning play and a film. Stepping into the Anne Frank House was a profound and emotionally stirring experience that resonated with me long after my departure.
Now, it’s no secret that paid sex between adults (18+) is legalized in the Netherlands. De Wallen is Amsterdam’s medieval hub and red-light district. It has many bars, sex shops, erotic museums, and over 200 window brothels. Seeing and experiencing De Wallen is often an Amsterdam bucket-list item for many a visitor, even if it's just for the quirkiness. However, be advised that taking pictures of the window brothels or their workers is considered rude and unacceptable. One of the main reasons is privacy as most workers in the red-light district lead double lives and don't want their friends, families and colleagues discovering this through Instagram. So, if you go, respect the ‘no photo’ signs. Storefronts also have CCTVs and the area is monitored by police cameras so it’s a pretty safe place to visit at night.
The street market scene in Amsterdam is thriving and they have much to offer when it comes to shopping: the thrill of running into a good bargain, finding ethically resourced and healthy food options, or simply enjoying delicious, fresh snacks. In this regard, there is no market place quite like the Albert Cuyp Market. This 1905 city market is a local favorite and top tourist attraction and I appreciated its nostalgic feel and the seemingly unmatched range of street food on offer, as well as hand-made jewelry and clothing. Only open six days a week with 260 market stalls, the Albert Cuyp Market is the largest in Europe with many artisan cafés and a wealth of cozy shops.
Before too long, it was time to depart this exciting and charming city. I did so with an abundance of wonderful memories of its historical attractions, its collections of great art and the distinctive color and flavor of its old and well-preserved sections.
Until next time…safe travels.
Loved Amsterdam through your eyes!
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