Once we settled in to the stunning Palacio Duhau #ParkHyatt, we stopped by the concierge desk to arrange an afternoon tour of Buenos Aires. It wasn’t too much later before our very energetic English-speaking guide Maria arrived at the hotel with a driver and we began our tour of the capital and largest city of Argentina. Buenos Aires is the most visited city on the continent and is often referred to as “The Paris of South America.” It has a strong European feel, thanks to the many immigrants from Spain, Italy and elsewhere who've made the city home throughout its nearly 500-year history. The city's wide boulevards, eclectic European-inspired architecture and abundance of sidewalk cafes are also reminiscent of “The City of Light.”
Our first stop was the Bosques de Palermo, a 400-block area that occupies the largest expanse of greenery in the city. “The Palermo Woods,” as it translates into English, was designed by French landscaper Carlos Thays who was intent on making Buenos Aires flourish. Often compared with Central Park in New York or Hyde Park in London, the “woods” are made up of different areas of green space, including 3 artificial lakes and another area dedicated to the cultivation of more than 8,000 rose bushes. We were visiting in November (springtime in the Southern Hemisphere) and the roses were in full bloom. They were spectacular and we were pleased to see so many couples, families and singles admiring them as they walked the pathways. While we didn’t stray from the gardens and lakes, the park also includes a museum and a planetarium.
Nearby in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas, is the Floralis Generica, a 105-foot wide giant metallic flower that “blooms” every day. It was designed and gifted to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano and this giant steel and aluminum flower has been a striking city landmark since it opened in 2002. It was designed to move, closing its petals at sunset and opening them again at 6:00am in the morning. It’s located in the center of a 4-acre park with wooded boundaries, surrounded by paths all leading towards the sculpture and thereby offering different perspectives of the flower and its 6 giant petals. The architect once said the flower “is a synthesis of all the flowers and, at the same time, a hope reborn every day at opening.”
We closed out the tour with Maria in the La Boca district, a working-class neighborhood or “barrio” with a cluster of attractions near the Riachuelo River. Steakhouses and street artists surround Caminito, a narrow alley flanked by brightly painted zinc shacks that evoke this district’s early immigrant days. Today La Boca is still a neighborhood of many immigrants, mostly Bolivians, Paraguayans, Peruvians and artists from other parts of Latin America as well as Arabs and Africans. We saw sidewalk tango dancers and several musical groups, all vying for tourist pesos but soon learned that the real La Boca comes alive in the evening after the visitors depart. That’s when residents catch up on the day's activities while enjoying a meal together in the barrio streets - talking, laughing and perhaps even dancing the night away as the spirit moves them.
The following morning we wandered over to The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires, otherwise known as #museomalba. It’s located on the tranquil and historic Figueroa Alcorta Avenue in the Palermo section of the city. Established in 2001 by Argentine businessman Eduardo Costantini, it's devoted to Latin American art from the onset of the 20th Century to the present day. The Malba also maintains a cultural center which stages art and film exhibitions and develops cultural activities. The museum receives over a million visitors each year and is sustained by over 1,400 active patrons.
During our visit, we learned that a bench is not just a bench. Visitors in need of a break may find themselves sitting on planks of wood that curve, wind and intertwine on the floor and climb up the walls of this 4-story building. Painting, sculpture, photography and drawings are all expertly highlighted in exhibits that seamlessly transition from one period to the next. The art here reflects the social and political art of the 1930s to the surrealism of the 40s and 50s to the minimalist and pop art of the 60s and 70s, culminating with contemporary works. We spent an entire morning here and it was well worth our time. As the Noon hour passed, we were reminded that eating steak in Argentina is a ritual so we found a sidewalk cafe and did just that. The atmosphere was fun and the food was delicious! The balance of our day was spent strolling the streets and doing a bit of shopping as we made our way back to the hotel in Recoleta. This gave us a golden opportunity to appreciate the many beautiful Belle Epoque buildings. Most were built in the early decades of the 20th Century when Buenos Aires went from a colonial outpost to one of the wealthiest cities in the world.
Of course, Argentina is also famous for the tango. This famous dance originated in the 1880s along the Rio de la Plata, the natural border between Argentina and Uruguay. It was born in the impoverished port areas of these countries and was frequently practiced in the bars and brothels where owners employed bands to entertain their patrons. It soon spread across the continent and the world and in 2009, UNESCO approved a joint proposal by the 2 nations to include the tango in its Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. We had to see a show and that evening we followed the recommendation made by the hotel concierge and booked dinner and a performance at #RojoTango which he claimed was the best show in town. After our hotel pickup, we headed to the exclusive waterfront neighborhood of Puerto Madero and stepped into the 5-star Faena Hotel where the Rojo Tango show takes place. With a bit of “speakeasy flair," we were ushered through a discreet entrance, down a long hallway lined with elegant shops and restaurants and into the cabaret theatre. Crimson lighting, a mahogany piano and chairs upholstered in rich red velvet added to the sensual atmosphere. We were first treated to a very good 3-course meal paired with some of Argentina’s top-quality Malbec, Chardonnay and Sparkling Wines. The 90-minute show began after dinner. It included a history of the tango from its beginnings to its modern variations. We watched 5 couples in period costumes perform different versions of the dance with superb choreography and excellent timing while listening to accomplished vocalists and a live, 5-piece orchestra. What a fun evening!
Our final day in Buenos Aires was a very busy one. The early morning found us on a ferry crossing the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento in nearby Uruguay. Founded by the Portuguese in1680, this town is located at the tip of a short peninsula on the north shore of the river facing Buenos Aires which proved to be a strategic position for resisting the Spanish. Colonia is one of the oldest towns in the country and is renowned for its historic quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We marveled at the many picturesque, pastel-colored houses and toured a very old but lovely Portuguese-built church before stopping for a quick cafe lunch in the main square. Afterwards, with just a bit of time on our hands, we wanted to further explore the area. That was both easy and affordable. We opted for a motorized, 4-seater golf cart from one of the numerous rental agencies in town. Our new “wheels” enabled us to venture out of town and so we headed up the coast for an hour or so while finding our way onto rustic country roads, pretty side streets, breezy coastal stretches and off-the-beaten path neighborhoods. We hopped a ferry returning to Buenos Aires in the mid-afternoon, just in time for our next adventure.
What’a trip to Argentina without enjoying a polo match, right? We were no sooner back at the hotel than we were picked up and driven to the Hurlingham Club, an Argentine sports and social club on the outskirts of the city founded in 1888. This was the first place in the country where polo was played and the Argentine Polo Association itself was founded at this club in 1922. Argentina has since become a dominant power in international polo and the club hosts a number of matches each year. We were lucky enough to witness the final match of the Hurlingham Open between the teams La Dolphina and Ellerstina. La Dolphina eked out an exciting victory with a final score of 19 to 18! Our bleacher seats were just a few rows up from the well-maintained field and I’ll never forget the sound those heavy hoofbeats made pounding quickly towards one goalpost and then back towards the other. They were so close and so loud you could literally feel them in your chest. The athletic prowess professional polo players exhibit is exceptional and also worth a mention. If you will, just imagine riding a rather large and powerful horse, pushing that horse to a gallop, bending over to use a mallet while trying to strike a small ball towards a goal. Oh, and you have to do that while avoiding other players on their horses all of whom are chasing the same ball at the same time. Whoa! Trust me when I tell you the action on that field was really fast paced and we had another great father-son afternoon together.
Our last day in Buenos Aires was capped off with a memorable meal, this time at La Cabrera Restaurant, yet another sizzling steakhouse in Palermo Soho. With more than 2 dozen cuts of meat on offer and a smorgasbord of accompanying side dishes, this popular, upscale grill boasted great food and attentive service. Once we returned to the Palacio Duhau, it didn't take long to drift off to a restful and peaceful sleep after such an eventful day. We headed north the following morning for a visit to Iguazu Falls. I can't wait to tell you all about it in a future post.
Until next time…stay safe.
Whew I am exhausted just reading the account of your trip. What fun adventures you had!!
Very evocative descriptions , as ever, George - sounds a real treat to visit the city ... and I feel that I just have!
Again, I feel like I have taken the trip with you. Your descriptive writing of adventures you have experienced is phenomenal! Thank you for sharing!