Istanbul, the far-off city in Turkey, has always held a fascination for me as it’s steeped in history. It was the capital of the Byzantine Empire, and later of the Ottoman Empire. Today, it’s Turkey’s largest city and principal seaport and forms a unique geopolitical boundary as well. One part of Istanbul lies in Europe and the other part lies in Asia. The city’s European part is separated from its Asian part by the Bosphorus Strait, a 19-mile-long waterway that forms a natural boundary between the two continents. With the above in mind, one of the most interesting trips I’ve been fortunate enough to make was to Istanbul. My travel plans took me first to Frankfurt on a United Airlines Boeing B777-200 and onward to Istanbul via a Lufthansa Airbus A321 aircraft. Since I have reviewed United’s international First Class service to Europe in several previous posts, I’ll concentrate first on the second half of that journey which began in Germany.
Frankfurt Airport (FRA) is the nation's main international airport by passenger volume and serves the country’s fifth-largest city, which is one of the world's leading financial centers. The airport is also the busiest in Europe in terms of cargo traffic and features four runways and two passenger terminals capable of accommodating up to 65 million passengers per year. Both United and Lufthansa were located in Terminal 1 at FRA so there was no need to change terminals after my early morning arrival from the Washington Dulles Airport (IAD). Although I was entitled to visit the Senator Lounge as a Star Alliance Gold member, I chose the Lufthansa Business Class Lounge nearby Gate A24 as it was closest to my Istanbul departure gate. This well-lighted lounge had a circular layout with plenty of seating options, including couches and hightop tables. I also noticed dedicated working desks with power outlets and ergonomic chairs. Aside from clean restrooms, the lounge also featured very nice shower rooms, one of which allowed me to freshen up between flights. Food and beverage options were located in the center on different buffet stations. Departure time soon arrived and, after a short walk to the gate, I waited with the other passengers for boarding to begin for the three-hour flight. We were delayed for nearly 20 minutes before I was able to walk aboard and take Seat 2C on the port side of the aircraft.
When it comes to Business Class seats on a narrow body jet like the Lufthansa Airbus A321 scheduled for the route that day (or any European carrier for that matter) there is no real luxury. While their Airbus is normally configured with 26 European-style Business seats and 168 standard Economy seats, the only difference between these rather uncomfortable seats is that Business Class has a guaranteed blocked middle seat. This allows the “premium cabin” to vary in size since the dividing curtain can be moved back and forth to accommodate the load. On the day I was traveling, Business Class stretched all the way back 10 rows before the curtain separated the cabins.
The biggest difference between Business and Economy on a Lufthansa medium-haul flight (over one hour) is the meal service. While food is buy-on-board in Economy, a meal is typically served in Business Class and a hot meal is offered on flights of three hours or longer. Our lunch began with a bag of cashews and choice of beverage. Entrée options included a Chicken Breast in a Fennel Mustard Sauce with Mashed Potatoes or a Vegetarian Mushroom dish with Potato Dumplings. I chose the latter and enjoyed an Orange Tart for dessert. Oddly, prior to landing each Business Class passenger was also presented with an Apple. The flight attendants working the forward cabin were cheerful and attentive. While drinks were refilled during the flight, somehow the galley ran out of glasses and after the meal service, drinks were served in plastic cups for the remainder of our flight. We landed just about on time in Istanbul and clearing their customs and immigration formalities was quick. Be advised you do need a visa to travel to Turkey as a US citizen, which can be secured from Turkish missions abroad or from their e-Visa Application System online prior to arrival.
It took about 35 minutes for the taxi to cover the 19-mile distance from Ataturk Airport into the city and only cost the equivalent of $13.00. I was staying at the Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Hotel & Conference Center, a 34-story, Five-Star property. It’s located in close proximity to some of the city’s best attractions. At check-in, I was instructed to head up to the Executive Lounge on the top floor for private registration, which was friendly, fast and efficient. I was assigned to a King Executive Room on the 30th floor and it was elegantly furnished, offering an impressive city view as well as complimentary Wi-fi, a media hub for electronic devices, and an ample work desk and 42-inch plasma TV with satellite, digital, and pay-for-view programs. Complimentary bath products were available and the king-sized Hilton Serenity Bed and blackout curtains made fora good night’s sleep. Access to the hotel's Executive Lounge was a very welcome treat. Here they served complimentary continental breakfast, snacks throughout the day along with evening cocktails and canapés. This hotel was the largest in the city, with 829 guest rooms and suites capable of hosting 6,350 guests at the same time. With four restaurants and lounges, a multi-level spa, a fitness center and both indoor and outdoor pools, this Hilton hotel checked all the boxes.
After business was over, I made the best of cramming all the sightseeing I could into just a few late afternoons. First stop was the world-famous Blue Mosque located several miles from the Hilton. Thousands of blue tiles line the interior of this mosque giving the structure its nickname. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, the Blue Mosque is famous for its stunning architectural features, its history, location, and interior decor. For the past 400 years, the mosque has stood in the center of Istanbul as a statement of Ottoman greatness and achievement. The structure itself is certainly grand and one of its most notable features is visible from far away: that being its six minarets. This is very unique, as most mosques have four, two or perhaps even a single minaret. According to one account, the Sultan directed his architect to make gold (altin) minarets, which was misunderstood as six (anti) minarets. I was transfixed by the vast interior with its striking tiles that have hand-painted designs with blue pigments as well as other colors, including red, green, and gold. The dome itself is 77 feet in diameter and over 140 feet high, contributing to the vastness of this architectural treasure.
The Dolmabahçe Palace was also a short distance away. It’s the largest and most sumptuous palace in Turkey and is located on the Bosporus Coast. This was Istanbul’s first European-style palace, built between 1843 and 1856 by Sultan Abülmecid the First in an attempt to modernize Istanbul, at a cost of 5 million Ottoman gold pounds, which is equivalent to 35 tons of gold! The sultan spared no expense in furnishing the palace, even though many of his subjects lacked basic necessities. It’s divided into three sections: the Men’s Quarters, the Ceremonial Hall, and the Harem, or apartments for the sultan’s family. There are 285 rooms, 44 halls, 6 Turkish baths (the main one decorated with pure alabaster) and 68 toilets. It's said that some 14 tons of gold and at least 6 tons of silver were used in interior decorations. The Crystal Staircase, in the shape of a double horseshoe is constructed of Baccarat Crystal, brass, and mahogany and is nothing short of breathtaking. In the vast ballroom and throne room hangs a Bohemia Crystal chandelier weighing more than four tons. It was long believed to have been a gift from Queen Victoria and hangs from the dome, which soars 120 feet high. For me, the palace was reminiscent of visiting the Palace of Versailles, with its opulence, grandeur and historical significance as well as its exquisite architectural details and stunning artwork. It’s a seamless blend of Ottoman and European styles and I would heartily recommend including it on your itinerary should you have an opportunity to visit this enchanting city.
A cruise on the Bosphorus is perhaps the most overlooked Istanbul tourist attraction, which is understandable considering the abundance of historical sightseeing spots and too little time to squeeze them all into a short visit. But, this was something that was highly recommended by my local hosts and I was looking forward to sailing on the strait. These cruises are great value for the money if you book them with trustworthy and reputable companies. Unfortunately, any number of less than trustworthy options abound along the docks. Şehir Hatları, Istanbul’s official ferry company, came highly recommended and offered three different options, but since I was pressed for time, I selected the Short Circle Cruise. Traveling by boat along the strait offered stunning views of the city’s iconic landmarks, palaces, and beautiful waterfront mansions. Istanbul is a maritime city, and I found that viewing both the European and Asian Continents at the same time on one of its best cruises ended up being one the highlights of my stay.
But, all good things must come to an end and so did my time in Turkey. While Ankara is the nation’s official capital, I was hard pressed to find anyone on my journey who didn’t consider Istanbul to be the true heart of the nation. I found it to be a tolerant and fascinating blend of East and West, boasting a rich trove of historical buildings, delicious cuisine and diverse culture.
Until next time…safe travels.
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