The Charms of Copenhagen

Graceful architecture and buildings adorned in pleasing pastel colors abound in many of Copenhagen's districts.

After arriving at the Copenhagen Airport, Customs & Immigration processing time was minimal and before too long, I was in a taxi en route to my hotel. Copenhagen is a big city of 1.3 million in a small country of just 5.6 million. The Danish capital is one of the most popular spots in Europe right now and one of the safest cities in the world. “One key factor that makes Copenhagen such a safe city is its low crime rate, currently at its lowest level in more than a decade,” Lars Weiss, Lord Mayor of Copenhagen, claimed in a recent report. “Copenhagen is also characterized by great social cohesion and a relatively narrow wealth gap. It is a mixed city where both the cleaning assistant and the CEO meet each other at the local supermarket and have their kids in the same school.” Copenhagen has been the seat of the Kingdom of Denmark for over 600 years, and many different Danish Kings commissioned impressive structures throughout the city. Copenhagen contains a blend of Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architecture, along with an abundance of newer contemporary buildings. Charming Danish fairytale scenes and grand palaces grace the cityscape. Royal Rococo buildings, majestic churches, and the historic city center complement the modern elements of Copenhagen. It’s a great place to visit because it offers such a different experience from the rest of Europe.

The lobby of the Hotel D'Angleterre, like the guest rooms themselves, exudes understated elegance at every turn.

Although the city has accommodations catering to all budgets, the swankiest lodgings are undoubtedly at the 5-star Hotel D’Angleterre, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World which dates back to 1755. I considered myself lucky to have reservations at this beautiful property which isn’t trapped in the past. Its interiors have kept up-to-date with the times, with its most recent makeover being in 2013. It mixes refined traditional design features (imposing proportions, stately columns, extravagant chandeliers) with contemporary comfort and style (tones of muted lilac, gray, silver and white, luxurious materials and fresh floral arrangements). Throughout the public spaces and in every one of its 92 guest rooms and suites hang paintings, lithographs, watercolors and prints by leading Danish artists, curated by collector Arne Wulff. The picture of discreet elegance, the accommodations showcase floor-to-ceiling French doors that open onto private balconies, oval mahogany coffee tables, chic writing desks, silk wall coverings, soft carpets and expansive marble bathrooms with both soaking tubs and rainfall showers. I was in Copenhagen for business on this trip and it was a real pleasure to return to this peaceful and graceful property at the end of each busy day.

Strøget, the pedestrian shopping mecca in the city center, is nearly two miles long and lined with famous brands.

Since Copenhagen offers a wealth of tourist attractions, I had no regrets about squeezing a few hours of sightseeing into my daily itinerary. Just around the corner from the hotel was Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe and Copenhagen's largest shopping area. It contains a series of interconnected streets that are lined with numerous boutiques and cafés. Stores showcasing prestigious international brands like Hermes and Prada are interspersed with those of Danish origin like silversmith Georg Jensen and Royal Copenhagen, the classic blue and white porcelain that’s made and painted entirely by hand. While I don’t consider myself a shopaholic, strolling in Strøget was a great way to while away an hour during a late afternoon. Established in 1962, the pedestrian street is today one of the most popular destinations for shoppers from all over the world. It was easy to understand why as I dodged the crowds darting in and out of the shops, bakeries and cafés that dotted both sides of these busy streets.

Tivoli is home to a variety of attractions, including rides, restaurants, and theaters, as well as many lovely gardens.

Another advantage to staying at the Hotel D’Angleterre was its central location. Less than a mile away was the famous Tivoli Gardens, the world’s second-oldest amusement park. Tivoli has been delighting visitors to the Danish capital since 1843 and has since become a national treasure and an international attraction. It's been said that fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen visited many times, as did Walt Disney, who many say was inspired by its old world charm. Part of Tivoli Gardens' secret is that there really is something for everyone. The scenery is beautiful with exotic architecture, historic buildings, and lush gardens. At night, thousands of colored lights create a unique fairytale atmosphere. The rides are all designed to match Tivoli's architecture and gardens. Some rides are wonderfully nostalgic, while others will match the expectations of the keenest thrill seekers. Tivoli’s oldest and most popular ride, the restored wooden rollercoaster first constructed in1914, is one of only seven rollercoasters worldwide which have a brakeman on board every train. In contrast, you could also find Vertigo, which turned brave riders upside down at more than 62 miles per hour and was voted Europe’s Best Ride in 2014 by The Kirmes & Park Revue, a the German trade industry magazine.

The palace was built in the Eighteenth Century and has been the residence of the Danish Royal Family since 1794.

Also nearby my hotel was Amalienborg Palace in the heart of Copenhagen where I visited the seat of one of the world’s oldest monarchies and enjoyed the opportunity to go “behind the scenes” in a real royal palace. Amalienborg is famous for its royal guard, known as The Royal Life Guard. I timed it so that I would experienced the changing of the guards. They were accompanied by music as they marched from their barracks at 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and ended up at Amalienborg at 12 noon. I learned that Amalienborg is made up of four identical buildings. These include Christian VII's Palace (used as a guest residence), Frederik VIII's Palace (home to Crown Prince Frederik), Christian IX's Palace (home to Queen Margrethe II) and Christian VIII's Palace (used as a guest palace for Prince Joachim and Princess Benedikte). It was in this building that I discovered the Amalienborg Museum which gave me access to the interiors of the most recent kings and queens along with an exhibit on the monarchy today with its many traditions. The scope of the museum stretches back 150 years to Christian IX and Queen Louise, who were known as "the in-laws of Europe" because four of their children ascended to the thrones of England, Greece, Russia, and Denmark.

The smallest attraction in Copenhagen is only four feet tall and sits by the shore in the old port district of town.

Of course, no visit to Copenhagen would be complete without seeing the Little Mermaid. Based on the 1837 fairy tale of the same name by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, I was surprised to see that it was so small and rather unimposing. Nevertheless, this bronze statue is a Copenhagen icon and has been a major tourist attraction since it was first unveiled in 1913. In recent decades though it has unfortunately become a popular target for defacement by vandals and political activists. The mermaid’s head was stolen in 1964, and her arm cut off in 1984. Fourteen years later in 1998, vandals removed her head yet again, but it was later returned before the statue was blown up in 2003. The statue has been tagged many times, most recently in 2020 with the mysterious inscription “racist fish." In March of this year, a Russian flag was painted onto the base in what police said was a "case of vandalism,” undoubtedly because Denmark has been a vocal critic of Russia alongside other Western nations following last year's invasion of Ukraine.

Copenhagen boasts the best of Danish design, including sleek wood furniture, pendant lights and exposed brick.

There’s no denying that visiting Denmark has become quite fashionable in recent years. Regularly ranked as one of the happiest countries in the world due to its shorter workdays, free college tuition, more vacation days, and greater levels of personal interaction. It’s also revered for its relaxed pace of life and liberal social attitudes, as well as its impeccable approach to design. At the very heart of Danish culture is the capital city of Copenhagen which also has much to offer in terms of art, history, a royal family and a burgeoning culinary scene with a number of Michelin star restaurants.

At the very heart of Danish culture is the capital city of Copenhagen which I found has so much to offer in terms of art, history, its royal family and a burgeoning culinary scene with a number of Michelin star restaurants. I can heartily recommend this city as a top destination for anyone wishing to delve into another culture in an atmosphere where nearly everyone speaks perfect English.

Until next time…safe travels.