My son and I enjoyed a restful night’s sleep at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel in Bangkok after our 24-hour journey to the Thai capital. This 5-star hotel is located in the city’s key commercial and diplomatic district, next to the Erawan Shrine which houses a statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai representative of Brahma, the Hindu god of creation. There’s a very interesting story surrounding the shrine. It was built back in 1956 as part of the government-owned Erawan Hotel to eliminate the bad karma believed to be caused by laying the foundation on the wrong date. The hotel’s construction was delayed by a series of mishaps, including cost overruns, injuries to laborers, and the loss of a shipload of Italian marble intended for the building. On top of all that, the hotel was being constructed next to an intersection that had once been used to put criminals on public display! An astrologer advised building the shrine to counter those negative influences. The Brahma statue was designed and built by the Department of Fine Arts and enshrined in November 1956. The hotel’s construction proceeded thereafter without further incident and it opened to great acclaim. The shrine has since continued to attract throngs of worshippers on a daily basis who often lay flowers and light incense while offering prayers to the deity.
In 1991, the aging Erawan Hotel was demolished and the Grand Hyatt took its place. At 22 stories tall, the hotel was refurbished and updated in 2014 and now houses 380 comfortable, contemporary rooms. They all have subtle Thai touches and sitting areas by the windows to capture the bustling city views. The hotel’s 44 suites feature an additional living room and access to the Grand Club. We were upgraded to a Grand Executive Suite Twin Room at check-in. Located on the 17th floor, this 860 square-foot room included separate living and dining areas, two 55-inch smart TVs, robes and slippers, a walk-in closet, an oversized tub and a separate shower. We were also given access to the Grand Club Lounge. Located on the same floor, this lounge offers VIP-concierge services, use of a boardroom and complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea and free-flowing evening cocktails and canapés.
We booked a half day tour with an English-speaking guide and driver on our first day in the city. Our guide arranged for a cruise along a good stretch of the busy Chao Phraya River that winds its way through the heart of Bangkok. The river is alive with traditional Thai long-tail boats, passenger ferries and cargo vessels and is the lifeblood of the city. It winds past both ancient temples and modern high-rises and we learned about most of them as we were offered a unique and personal perspective on the capital. After the cruise, we were taken to the Grand Palace that has served as the official residence of the Kings of Siam (now Thailand) since the year 1782. The palace has become one of the most famous landmarks in the city and has been the home of the King, Royal Court and the administrative seat of government for more than 150 years. It’s considered the spiritual heart of the Kingdom of Thailand and the impressive interior is still used for important ceremonies, including coronations. The stately antique throne and the Western-styled one currently in use are both on display.
The palace complex features a number of impressive buildings, including the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The famous and widely-revered Emerald Buddha dates back to the 14th Century. It’s undoubtedly the country’s most important Buddhist temple and enshrines the meticulously carved jade Buddha in the meditating position, clothed in gold and diamonds. This is one of the most sacred sites in all of Thailand and strict dress codes apply to all visitors. Men are required to wear shirts with sleeves and long pants. No bare feet are permitted so anyone wearing flip flops or sandals must also wear socks. Women must also dress modestly. Anyone arriving at the temple ill prepared is directed to a booth near the entrance where proper clothing is thankfully provided for a refundable deposit.
We went to the legendary Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Hotel for a folkloric dinner that night. On arrival we were quickly ferried across the Chao Phraya River in a Thai-style teak boat for an entertaining evening in the hotel’s famed Sala Rim Naam Restaurant, a stand-alone pavilion with a pitched roof, high ceilings and ornate polished teakwood decor reminiscent of a Thai temple. Against this backdrop, we were served a delicious, 5-course meal, including Crabmeat cooked in coconut milk, a spiced Seafood Salad, Beef Curry with sweet potato and onion, Fried Prawns with garlic and red chili sauce and Steamed Thai Dumplings filled with herbed minced chicken and peanut. As we dined, we were treated to an hour-long cultural performance, including classical Thai dances, mock battles and scenes taken from popular Thai folklore. One couldn’t help but admire the elaborate costumes and the stylized movements of the graceful dancers as they mesmerized us from the stage. The performers graciously agreed to pose for photographs at the show’s conclusion after which we boarded the teak boat once again, this time to return to the main hotel building. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.
We took it easy the next morning after breakfast in the Grand Club Lounge by just roaming along parts of Sukhumvit Road. At more than 300 miles long, this thoroughfare is said to be the longest boulevard in the world running from the center of Bangkok all the way to the Cambodian border. While we explored only a very small section, there seemed to be no end to the number of luxury malls and boutique shops we came upon. One different area of note was Benjasiri Park near the Phrom Phong transit stop. Inside this park we found an artificial lake, a dedicated sports area for basketball, running, volleyball and even a pool! Sukhumvit Road also features food for all tastes and budgets from street stalls where you can eat Pad Thai to Michelin-starred restaurants. With its high concentration of foreign inhabitants, the majority of eateries here also offer international dishes as well so it’s easy to find pizza, paella or tacos if that’s what you’re after. We opted for some tasty street food for lunch at one of the countless noodle stalls we found along the way and were not disappointed.
One word of caution while walking about Bangkok. You have to keep your wits about you on the streets to avoid getting hit by one of the ubiquitous tuk tuks. These open-air, three-wheeled vehicles appear to be everywhere. Popular with locals and tourists alike, I can testify that while they’re cheap to hire, tuk tuk drivers are somewhat reckless and don’t always speak English. I recall once taking a wild ride with a business associate on an earlier visit during which it took us nearly 2 hours to find our way back to the hotel, although in retrospect, we did get a pretty good but very fast look around the city. That’s why I stuck with taxis on this visit with my son. And once back at the Grand Hyatt, we scheduled traditional Thai massages for ourselves and then spent the afternoon relaxing (and dozing) by the pool.
Our final night in the city called for something special and the Sky Bar fit the bill. The Sky Bar is a Bangkok institution and many folk consider a trip to this “City of Angels” incomplete without a visit. Most of us have had rooftop drinks before but this bar is actually worthy of all its hype. Suspended on a precipice 820 feet in the air, Sky Bay is one of the highest rooftop bars in the world. It’s located atop the State Tower on Siloam Road. Built in 2001, it’s the largest building in Southeast Asia with approximately 3,200,000 square feet of floor area. The skyscraper is also home to condominiums, serviced apartments, retail space and two, 5-star hotels. Whether you go to the Sky Bar at sundown or after dark, it’s a different place from dusk onward, thanks to the fading light, the flickering cityscape and the backlit bar that changes color throughout the night. It was awe inspiring and was literally a “high point” of the trip.
After a few drinks we didn’t want to give up the amazing view. So, we went for dinner at the Sirocco Restaurant, literally just a few steps above the Sky Bar in what was a very impressive open-air pavilion. One hundred tons of steel were used to elevate the floor of this restaurant, ultimately creating one of the city’s finest views for one of its most celebrated fine dining experiences. Sirocco’s received the 2020 World Travel Award as Asia’s Leading Hotel Rooftop Restaurant. The Mediterranean fare was delicious, the service was on point and the wine pairings were excellent. The Sky Bar and Sirocco’s proved to be a wonderful way to close our visit to Bangkok. We made our way back to the Grand Hyatt and packed up in preparation for our morning flight to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. I’ll tell you all about that segment of our journey in a future post.
Until next time...stay safe.
A great tale George - my one brief stay in Bangkok was very enjoyable and I was shown around the city by the Dentsply GM, Karnt Wongsuphasawat, [who must have liked me because I could pronounce his name] ... what I remember are the Golden Buddha's and purchasing my "indestructible" silk shirt that I wore for years after this visit. Look forward to hearing about Vietnam ...