Before I tell you about how I spent my free time while visiting Jakarta, I thought it best to give you a little background information. As the seat of both the national and provincial governments, the city is, of course, Indonesia’s political center. Moreover, it’s also a financial and trading hub. Jakarta is a dynamic and massive city, sitting on the northwest coast of Java, the world’s most populous island. At first sight it appears to be a very crowded and confusing place and I’ll admit it can be difficult to look past the maddening traffic and pollution for which it has become associated. Many tourists choose to take in other destinations throughout the archipelago instead. I believe it’s their loss. Missing out on Jakarta on a visit to Indonesia is a mistake. Underneath what’s often perceived as an unappealing facade are plenty of surprises; an exciting nightlife and vibrant shopping scene, as well as a melting pot of Indonesian culture and cuisine.
The locals here are friendly, welcoming, and positive, and in comparison to many other world capitals, crime levels are moderate. “Because Jakarta is usually not on the radar of tourists, there’s an authenticity to much of it that is hard to avoid. Dutch colonial influences stand alongside those of the dominant Islam religion, while cultural traditions from the diverse Indonesian islands meld with the Western comforts of the expat community,” according to Michael Turtle, the Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world.
My hosts suggested I first visit the National Monument. This immense obelisk is an icon situated in beautiful Merdeka Square. Standing at a colossal 433 feet high, the National Monument pays homage to the struggle for Indonesian independence and is revered across the country. Aside from admiring the beautiful architecture of the monument, I rode an elevator up the observation deck to appreciate the stunning views of this vast city and was fortunate the industrial smog was rather light on that weekend. I learned the monument houses the first red-and-white flag flown during the Proclamation of Independence on August 17, 1945. Over time, the original flag has become fragile and is only taken out during Independence Day ceremonies when it accompanies a replica flag flown in front of the Merdeka Palace. The National Monument s topped with a 47-foot tall bronze flame coated with over 70 pounds of gold leaf. Within the pedestal, I toured the museum, which depicts in diorama, Indonesia’s fight for sovereignty as well as the original text of its Proclamation of Independence.
Next on my agenda was the Jakarta History Museum, known locally as the Fatahillah or Batavia Museum. It’s housed in the former City Hall building, located in the old, historic part of the city. This venerable structure dates back more than 300 years and was the administrative headquarters of the Dutch East India Company, and later of the Dutch Government. Built in 1710 by then Governor General van Riebeeck, this beautiful building hides what lies below - notorious dungeons and filthy water prisons. Thankfully, those days are long gone and today, the museum displays the history of the city from its prehistoric days to the founding of the town of Jayakarta. The collection reflects the influences of various cultural elements on the city, namely from Europe, especially from the Netherlands, but also from China and India as well as from Indonesia itself. To bring more life and activities to the Old Batavia Square, today the Jakarta Government has organized regular attractions involving local communities and their cultures. I was fortunate to visit on a weekend, during which time performers enacted the Zapin Dance, one of the most popular of the Malay performing arts performed against that day's backdrop of activities, including a vintage car parade, street food and souvenir vendors, and even fireworks. It was quite the show and I’m so glad to have seen it.
As the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, the Istiqlal Mosque is a very important site in the heart of Jakarta and was something I didn’t want to miss. Originally constructed in 1978, this mosque can accommodate up to 120,000 persons and featured a beautiful marble courtyard with several decorative minarets. Inside, vast columns hold up the central dome and the walls are decorated with Islamic reliefs and iconography. The Istiqlal Mosque was designed in 1954 by Frederich Silaban, a Christian architect from North Sumatra. It took 17 years to build with the construction being personally supervised by Indonesian President Sukarno. As one of the remarkable buildings that help to beautify downtown Jakarta, the mosque inspires with its enormity and contemporary design. The impressive building itself covers some 22 acres and has five levels with most of the structure clad in marble from East Java. There are seven entrances and each one symbolizes one of the Seven Heavens of Islam. Before entering the building, worshippers and visitors alike need to take off their shoes. Fortunately, there were English-speaking guides available to show us non-Muslim visitors around which added immeasurably to my visit.
To gain a deeper appreciation for Indonesian culture and the historic daily life of its citizens, my hosts took me next to see Tamin Mini, which I was informed was a prime showcase for the nation’s rich cultural heritage. Located in East Jakarta, it featured multiple chieftain replica houses which displayed the history, arts, crafts and traditions of each province. Built for education and family fun, Taman Miini has large areas for recreation, a number of parks, various museums, theaters and even overnight accommodations. Here at a glance I was able to view the exceptional breadth and full range of regional architecture in Indonesia. Tamin Mini also contains the Komodo Museum dedicated to rare animals, a Sports Museum and one displaying gifts received by President Suharto during his thirty years at the helm of power. For nature lovers, there are orchid gardens, cacti, herb, and flower gardens, and there’s also a Bird Park. The chief mission of the park is the preservation of Indonesia’s various cultures as a means of strengthening national unity and educating future generations. It was a great way to spend a few hours and gave me a deeper understanding of the nation's culture.
Not only does Jakarta have a rich cultural heritage, but it’s also a haven for those who love to shop. Having seen my share of large, luxury malls, I was anxious to discover the hidden byways of the city for local treasures. The hotel concierge suggested I visit the Jalan Surabaya Flea Market and I was not disappointed. Best known for its antiques and ornaments, the 184 shops here sell everything from each period of Indonesia’s history. Dutch coins, silverware, chandeliers and porcelain objects sit next to vinyl records, cameras and traditional batik clothing. I also discovered puppets and stone carvings amongst the varied items for sale, as well as shops selling everything from second-hand luggage and random items recovered from the sea such as diving helmets and portholes. Luckily, I was instructed to haggle over the first price quoted and ended up with a few quaint trinkets of my time in the nation’s capital.
There’s no denying Jakarta is big city with big problems like rampant poverty, pollution and overcrowding, but the diverse culture and the pulse of non-stop action was alluring and made it one of the most interesting places I’ve ever visited.
Until next time…safe travels.
Fascinating - Thanks for the insight George