Italy has always held a special place in our hearts. Famous for the Renaissance and the incredible art and artists of that era, the Southern European country is also well known and highly regarded for its history, cosmopolitan cities, vibrant culture and unique scenery, as well as its enchanting language, museums, opera, fashion, luxury brands and its world famous and delicious food. It should come as no surprise that my wife and I were anxious to make a visit in the springtime several years ago to take in the sights amid romantic Florence and enjoy the quaint charm of the nearby walled city of San Gimignano.
We started our journey with a departure from Washington Dulles Airport on a United Airlines flight to Frankfurt. From there, we connected with Air Dolomiti, the Lufthansa Group’s regional carrier, that saw us touching down in Florence mid-morning after ninety minutes in the air. Our accommodations were reserved at the Hotel Lungarno. This five-star property is one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and occupies a beautifully-restored mansion set directly on the banks of the Arno River, just steps from the medieval Ponte Vecchio bridge. Decorated with items from the hotel's private art collection, the sophisticated rooms offered free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs and minibars, plus designer toiletries and a world-class view from the charming Rooftop Bar.
Once settled in, we walked over to the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), the medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River. This type of bridge comprises an arch where the deck is completely above it, with the area between the arch and the deck being known as the spandrel. It was the only bridge in Florence spared from destruction during the Second World War and is known for the many shops built inside. Building shops on such bridges was once a common practice when butchers, tanners, and farmers initially occupied the stalls. Present tenants include jewelers, art dealers, and souvenir sellers. The bridge is now a well-known tourist attraction and visiting the shops lining both sides of the covered bridge is a quintessential and time-honored tradition when in Florence.
Dominating the skyline and the most recognizable structure in the city is the spectacular Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, known simply as the Duomo. Built in dedication to the Virgin of Flowers, this majestic church set the scene for the Italian Renaissance and went on to inspire a legion of architects and artists on the continent. The immense dome was to be the focal point of the cathedral, with its tallest point being 295 feet high! Size alone, however, is not the most impressive aspect of the dome, It was also one of the most incredible feats of engineering and architecture at the time. Many experts believed it would be impossible to construct a dome of this size, but Filippo Brunelleschi, who won the commission for the original construction after fending off a number of prominent artists and architects in ancient Florentine, had a wealth of knowledge and experience to get the job done. In fact, the architect was a genius when it came to geometry and physics and his brilliance was enough to convince authorities to proceed with the commission. Work eventually commenced on the dome in 1420, but it was not until after Brunelleschi’s death that it was completed. A visit to this architectural masterpiece was an experience we won’t soon forget. We were awed by its majestic proportions and the beauty of its cavernous interior.
Florence brims with treasures at every turn and we made a point to head over to the the nearby Uffizi Gallery for a look at its outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages to modern times. The building housing the gallery was commissioned by none other than Cosimo de’Medici, the first Grand Duke of Tuscany, and was started in 1560 to house the administrative and legal offices of Florence. The work was entrusted to artist Giorgio Vasari, and it’s now the most famous museum in the city. The gallery occupies both the first and second floors and contains the world’s finest collection of Italian renaissance painting, particularly of the Florentine school of art that flourished between the Thirteenth and Sixteenth Centuries. We marveled at the paintings, which included works by the Italian masters such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Caravaggio and the incredible collection of ancient statues and busts once owned by the powerful Medici family. This is one of the most popular museums in the city, but during our April visit the crowds were sparse, which only added to our enjoyment.
We’d heard of the Piazzale Michelangelo and decided to walk up from the Piazza Poggi at the base of the hill upon which the large square sits. It was well worth the effort, not just for the perfect photo opportunity the piazzale provided of the city stretched out before our eyes, but for the moment of wonder it afforded us. We spent some additional time appreciating the phenomenal view with a stop at La Loggia, the beautiful restaurant at the Piazzale Michelangelo, occupying a Nineteenth Century building with a rooftop terrae overlooking Florence. It’s no wonder it’s been a popular spot in the city since its creation in 1869. The architect Giuseppe Poggi was tasked with redeveloping the hills on the southern side of the River Arno in a grand urban renewal plan after Florence became the capital of Italy in 1863, a title it would hold until the capital was moved to Rome in 1871. The square is, of course, named after the great Renaissance artist and features replicas of some of his important works. It may be a classic tourist trap, but gazing out over the city which gave birth to such great art and holds such treasured history really captured our hearts.
One of the highlights on a visit to Florence never to be missed is a trip to the Accademia Gallery. This art museum is best known as the home of Michelangelo’s sculpture of the Biblical David. Knowledge of Michelangelo’s talent as a sculptor was growing and his career was accelerating when the twenty-six year old artist returned to Florence in 1501 after having carved the beautiful Pieta in Rome in the late 1490s. David was originally commissioned as one of a series of statues of prophets to be positioned along the roofline of the east end of the Florence Cathedral. The masterpiece of Renaissance art was created from a single block of marble between the years 1501 and 1504. Standing at 13’ 6” tall, the double life-sized David is depicted patiently waiting for battle, prepped with a slingshot in one hand and a stone in the other. Because the statue was intended to be placed in a high location on the church, it had to be large enough to be seen from below. Today however, it resides not outside the cathedral, but inside the comfortable confines of the Accademia where we just about had a private audience, walking right up to admire the sculpture without any crowds to interfere with our experience, which was truly amazing and left us utterly speechless for a time.
For many, Florence is the beating heart of Italy but there is so much more to discover in that country. I’ll tell you all about our visit to San Gimignano and its Tuscan environs in a future post.
Until next time…safe travels.
Brought back memories for me of
our trip to Italy all those years ago!
Thanks George. Brought back some memories of a whistle-stop tour of the Mediterranean as part of a cruise - we missed so much!