Several years ago, my wife and I enjoyed a relaxing springtime weekend in captivating Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico. Located in the north-central portion of the state at the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, its elevation is approximately 7,200 feet above sea level. The city claims just about 88,000 residents and is set in a high desert landscape of wildflowers, sagebrush, and juniper pine. Settled by Native Americans long ago, the region was barely colonized by Spaniards venturing northward from Mexico City in the early 1600s. The flag of newly independent Mexico was raised here in 1821 but replaced by the American flag in 1848, and New Mexico did not achieve US statehood until 1912. That explains why the city is adorned with handsome buildings that reflect its multicultural history, including some grander “Pueblo Revival” buildings erected by the beloved local architect John Gaw Meem. Even a quick drive around Santa Fe suggests why its motto is “The City Different,” and why UNESCO added it to its relatively small Creative Cities Network. Santa Fe is highly focused on arts and culture, with more artists, performers, and writers per capita than any other US city. Every season features festivals celebrating various aspects of the visual and performing arts, and the city remains one of America’s largest markets for fine art. It isn’t hard to understand why we were both so anxious to visit.
Our journey began at the Baltimore Washington Airport (BWI) on a United Air Lines flight to Chicago O’Hare Airport (ORD) where we connected with another United flight to the Albuquerque International Sunport (ABQ). Our total travel time was approximately seven hours, including time spent on the ground in Chicago. On arrival in New Mexico, we rented a car and drove to Santa Fe having chosen the connection to Albuquerque as those flights were offered with greater frequency. Rather than heading directly up I-25 to Santa Fe, we took a leisurely 54-mile drive along the scenic Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway (NM Highway 14), This trail runs east of the Sandia Mountains through eclectic little towns with loads of history, quirky museums, art galleries and diners touting their “Champion Chili Cheeseburgers.” We also drove by forested state parks beckoning exploration, as well as a few old mining towns and even passed an alpaca farm before arriving at our destination.
The welcoming Inn & Spa at Loretto was our home for the weekend. This AAA Four-Diamond resort epitomizes the intrigue of northern New Mexico through artistic design and world-class accommodations. It’s the most photographed building in the state with a premier location in the heart of Santa Fe’s historic Plaza. This resort features 136 well-appointed guest rooms and five suites, along with a two-story penthouse at over 3,000 square feet complete with an in-room spa and dining services as well as five balcony terraces offering spectacular views of the city. The Inn & Spa also features an award-winning spa, hair and nail salon, casual fine dining, and a year-round heated garden pool, as well as many unique on site galleries and boutiques. While we didn't stay in the penthouse, our modern and sophisticated Grande King Room was decorated in Native American style with a plush bed and luxurious bedding and featured a balcony with great views of the mountains and a fairly large sitting area with work desk. Breakfast was served every morning in the Luminaria Restaurant and Patio and evening cocktails were available in The Living Room. Leisure options included a fitness centre, massage therapy, and various recreational opportunities along with facilities like a sunbathing terrace and a heated outdoor pool.
Right next door is the Loretto Chapel, a former Roman Catholic Church that’s now a museum and also functions as a wedding chapel. Construction was completed on the Gothic Revival chapel in 1873 and it’s famous for its Miraculous Staircase. The architect died during the building process, leaving no access to the choir loft some 20 feet above the main area. Multiple builders were consulted and all believed there was no room for a staircase in that small church. Legend has it the Sisters of Loretto prayed to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters, for a solution to their problem and within nine days a mysterious stranger appeared with a donkey and toolbox offering to build the staircase. He completed the project within a few months and disappeared before they could thank him or pay him. The finished staircase is an impressive work of carpentry, seeming to defy physics as it ascends to the loft without any obvious means of support such as a newel or central pole. The staircase is built primarily of wood and is held together by wooden pegs, with no glue, nails or other hardware used. The exact type of wood used has been confirmed to be a type of spruce which is not native to New Mexico and scientifically not identified anywhere else in the world. The Sisters of Loretto believed the mysterious builder was St. Joseph himself who answered their prayers.
After that “mystical” experience, we needed some exercise. Within easy walking distance from the chapel was the Plaza, which has served as the heart of downtown Santa Fe and remains the central part of the city, hosting Indian and Spanish markets and other annual events as well as community gatherings, concerts and more. Also nearby in the Historic District was Canyon Road. While gracious adobe architecture gives Canyon Road its old world charm, diversity is its claim to fame. More than a hundred galleries, jewelry stores, clothing boutiques, home furnishings shops, gourmet restaurants, artist studios and galleries, line this magical half-mile. On a road that encouraged a pleasant stroll, we saw fine art from artists located throughout the United States and the world, all in one place. With a selection featuring everything from Traditional Western to Native American, to abstract contemporary art, collectors also have the benefit of finding incredible and noteworthy original work. We learned that many of the galleries on Canyon Road have established reputations with prominent art collectors, major art fairs, and museums throughout the country. Of special note is turquoise. It’s become synonymous with New Mexico and the shops on Canyon Road sell a variety of beautiful turquoise and silver jewelry, all of which has become Santa Fe’s trademark. Shopping along this pedestrian friendly, tree-lined street was a great way to spend a few hours and proved to be one of the highlights of our stay.
Situated on the north side of the historic Santa Fe Plaza, we discovered the Palace of the Governors, a beloved icon, complex symbol, and anchor for the New Mexico History Museum. Dating back to 1610, the Palace is the oldest public building in continuous use constructed by European settlers in the continental US. Built by the Spanish for colonial administration, the structure has been extensively modified over the centuries to meet changing needs. In recognition of its historical and architectural significance, this modest one-story adobe structure has been designated a National Historic Landmark. In 2015 it was also recognized as a National Treasure by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The Palace of the Governors is one of the oldest, in-use public building in the United States. Once the seat of power, the Palace now showcases the diverse and colorful history of Santa Fe and its peoples. After our visit, we took a walk along the front portal, and found local Native American artisans showcasing and selling their work as they have apparently done for generations.
Thanks to the concierge, we secured a final evening dinner reservation at The Compound Restaurant, an American classic in the heart of the city. This folk-art-filled restaurant, with decor by famed designer Alexander Girard, is one of the most well-known dining spots in town. The oft-changing menu was devoted to seasonal and local ingredients with a variety of meats, fish, and pastas. The extensive, and expensive, wine list would please the most discerning palate. The quaint patio is available for dining in warm weather and we were happy to take advantage of its availability. Diners are also welcome at the U-shaped bar, which has a more social atmosphere than the cozy, but more formal dining room. The restaurant, opened in the late 60s and is now run by Executive Chef Mark Kiffen. Our dinner was delicious and we weren’t surprised to learn Condé Nast Traveler Magazine included the business in a list of Santa Fe's twelve best restaurants last year. The Compound has also been a semifinalist in the Outstanding Restaurant category of the James Beard Foundation Awards.
It was soon time to bid farewell to Santa Fe and we headed back east on Sunday afternoon with fond memories of a lovely weekend in the Southwest.
Until next time…safe travels.
The gravity defying staircase made of unique spruce wood would be a definite draw for me - love this type of folklore!
George, I do so love your writing. I have visited the area and absolutely loved everything about it. It does feel mystical and magical there. Makes me want to go back - maybe some day! :-)