After a restful night, we faced our first full day in San Francisco with eagerness and excitement. Following breakfast, we walked the few blocks from the Marriott Marquis to world-famous Union Square. This 2.6-acre public plaza is bordered by Geary, Powell, Post and Stockton Streets in the heart of downtown. The term “Union Square” also refers to the central shopping, hotel and theatre district that surrounds the plaza for several blocks. This area got its name from the pro-Union rallies held there before and during the American Civil War which has earned it a well-deserved designation as a California Historical Landmark. An obelisk called the Dewey Monument stands in the center of the square. It’s dedicated to Admiral George Dewey and commemorates his victory in the Battle of Manila Bay during the Spanish American War. It was a beautiful late August day. The sun was shining and the flowers in the square were in full bloom, perfect weather for taking in the sights and sounds of this busy downtown gathering spot and shopping mecca.
We did our fair share of shopping and when it was time for lunch, we headed to the Cheesecake Factory on the top floor of the Macy’s Building. This chain restaurant is consistently good and features a varied menu highlighted by their delicious desserts. We only waited a short while and were lucky to snag a table outside and were soon rewarded with fantastic views overlooking Union Square. Afterwards, we boarded a cable car to Fisherman’s Wharf. The San Francisco Cable Car System is the last manually-operated one in the world. A city icon, the system dates back to 1873 and the cable cars themselves are listed on the National Register of Historic Places (and the only one that moves most of the time). While the cars are used to some extent by commuters, the vast majority of their seven million yearly passengers are tourists so the wait to enter the cars can often exceed two hours or more. Riding the cable cars is part of the charm of visiting San Francisco. The tracks are fairly close together so if you’re fortunate enough to stand outside, hold on tight and be sure to lean in as you pass another car going in the opposite direction!
Fisherman’s Wharf, on the northern waterfront, is one of the city’s busiest tourist areas but we didn’t mind at all. Souvenir shops and stalls selling crab and clam chowder in sourdough bread bowls seem to appear on every corner as do picture-postcard views of the bay, the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz Island. We walked down to observe the colony of barking sea lions at Pier 39. A few of them began hanging out at here at the pier’s K-Dock shortly after the Loma Prieta earthquake hit San Francisco in October 1989. In just a few short months, hundreds more arrived in droves and completely took over the dock. With a plentiful supply of food from the bay and an environment protected from predators, the Pier 39 Marina proved to be an ideal living situation for the sea lions. They’re not leaving and it seems they enjoy the crowds. Watching them “sunbathe” and listening to their barking is sure to bring a smile to your face!
Next, we strolled over to nearby Pier 41 to ride the Blue and Gold ferry to Sausalito. It’s a very pleasant ride and, in just about a half hour, we were docking at the Gabrielson Park Terminal, within walking distance to the downtown area. Sausalito is a quiet and charming town of about 7,500 residents. It reminded me of a hilly Mediterranean village as the homes cling to a steep, wooded hillside above the shoreline. While views of the City of San Francisco across the bay are stunning, Sausalito has its own magic. It’s filled with restaurants, art galleries and scenic walkways. We enjoyed a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, strolling through the cobbled sidewalks in the sea air and browsing some of the Bay Area’s most individual and unique waterfront shops along the Bridgeway Promenade. Known for its artistic bent, Sausalito has long drawn artisans who wish to showcase their wares as something distinctive, special and different.
Returning to Fisherman’s Wharf, we had dinner on Pier 47 at Scoma’s, a classic San Francisco seafood restaurant. This “pier to plate” establishment is well known for their wide variety of fresh Pacific seafood delivered to their own pier early each morning by local fishermen. Later, we further explored the area. Fisherman’s Wharf gets its name and neighborhood characteristics from the city’s early days in the mid-to-late Nineteenth Century when Italian immigrant fishermen came to the San Francisco to take advantage of the influx of population resulting from the gold rush. From those days to the present, the wharf has remained the center of operations for the city’s fishing fleet. Ghirardelli Square was next on our agenda. It’s a couple blocks away on the corner of Beach and Larkins Streets. Shops and restaurants fill all three levels of the old chocolate factory that’s now a city landmark. Before long, we found the Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop for the best desserts to cap off that perfect San Francisco day!
Our pre-reserved Hertz rental car was available for pick-up at the Marriott Marquis the following morning and we made our way north towards the Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge on yet another gorgeous day, we drove up Highway 101 for about an hour. Sonoma, just like its famous Napa cousin, features many world-class wineries. It’s also home to delicious craft beers, tempting farm-to-fork food, charming small towns with urban amenities, stunning scenery and wide-open spaces. Our destination was the Jordan Vineyard and Winery in Healdsburg where we had a reservation for a tour and tasting. This family-owned winery produces only two varietals, an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The winery was founded in 1972 and is housed in a beautiful chateau overlooking nearly 1,200 acres of hills and vineyards with three quarters of the land dedicated to natural habitat. Just a handful of people were in the tour group. Our knowledgeable guide took us through the winery and expertly answered every question raised. The day’s highlight was the leisurely and well executed food and wine pairing conducted for our small group in the imposing library. The Reidel crystal stemware brought out the best in the wines. No doubt, the Jordan experience is much more dignified and civilized than the all-too-typical wine country tastings where you’re rushed in and out after a few thimble-fulls of wine. We later stopped off for a tasty lunch at one of the charming roadside restaurants in Healdsburg before driving back into the city.
It was our now our last night in town. For background, my friend and I are both past commodores of the Gulf Harbors Yacht Club on the West Coast of Florida. We also belonged to the International Order of the Blue Gavel, an association of past commodores of qualified yacht clubs and so we enjoyed reciprocity with other clubs associated with the Yachting Club of America. As such, we were able to make dinner reservations at the Saint Francis Yacht Club. This is one of the esteemed yacht clubs in the world, steeped in tradition with a clubhouse on the shores of San Francisco Bay with panoramic views that span from the Golden Gate Bridge to Alcatraz Island. What a treat it was to enjoy cocktails in the Trophy Lounge and a very nice dinner in the Main Dining Room. The only drawback was the unexpected fee tacked onto our checks as reciprocal members. But that failed to dampen our spirits and we all agreed this was a special way to bring our time together to a close.
Heading back to Raleigh the next morning on Delta Air Lines, we both agreed we'd “left our hearts in San Francisco.”
Until next time…stay safe.
Well written and well remembered!
Great review of a fabulous city. Glad you had such an enjoyable time.