We arrived at the dock in Bordeaux to board Uniworld’s S.S. Bon Voyage close to 1:00 PM on Sunday, following the high-speed TGV train ride from Paris. Our intention was to check in, drop off our luggage and head into town for lunch. What a pleasant surprise to learn a full buffet luncheon was being served in Le Grand Fromage Dining Room, which included a number of hot entrées, as well as soups, salads and desserts. Of course, this was a cruise of the French wine region so we enjoyed a glass or two with lunch. After a quick stop at the Reception Desk to make a group dinner reservation for Wednesday evening in the private dining room, it was time to unpack and explore this beautiful ship that was to be our home for the next seven days.
The Bon Voyage, formerly known as the River Royale, was launched in 2006 and refurbished in 2019. It’s now considered one of the line’s “super ships,” with enhanced amenities like more dining options and a better passenger-to-staff ratio. What sets Uniworld apart from their competition though is their laser focus on a more imperial-style interior design, as opposed to those ships with a contemporary feel. We were greeted with marble, polished brass, Murano glass chandeliers and fabric-covered walls at every turn. With ample public spaces, including a top deck with awnings for shade and thickly cushioned lounge chairs, there were plenty of options for relaxation. Bon Voyage features Classic, Deluxe and French Balcony cabins, in addition to four suites. We opted for French Balcony cabins and, while not the largest in the industry, they are certainly among the most distinctive, with decor inspiration taken from the region. Each features Uniworld's signature fabric-coated walls and pastel color palette. The duvet-covered Savoir of England bed was the star of the room with starched white linens, a quartet of monogrammed pillows and new cushioned mattress. On both sides of the bed were international power outlets and USB ports ideal for easily charging our devices.
We set sail northward for a few hours that evening along the Gironde River, docking overnight at the right bank town of Blaye. The next morning we joined a small group for a tasting at a local wine shop and a visit to an artists’ studio. I might mention that all Uniworld bookings include most excursions with the exception of those labeled “Masterpiece Collection," which incur additional charges. The Blaye Region of Bordeaux is noted for its exceptional fresh and fruity red wines blended primarily from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. They also produce whites from an equally traditional blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. Sebastian was the proprietor of the wine shop and although he was a native of South Africa, he shared with us highlights of the region while leading us in a tasting of several very nice local wines. In fact, one member of our group was so impressed with the reds we enjoyed, he ordered a mixed case without hesitation! Next, we visited a nearby artists’ studio operated by Sebastian’s wife Leslie and soon visited an eclectic shop selling sculpture, original dishes and other interesting ceramics pieces. Of special note is that this establishment was managed by his ex-wife Elaine, all of which gave new meaning to the words “family affair."
That afternoon, while the Bon Voyage cruised nine miles south to Bourg, the gentlemen opted for the Rémy Martin cognac tour. This company is listed on the Euronext Paris exchange, but the family retains a majority share. Among the ‘big four’ Cognac houses (Hennessy, Martell, Courvoisier, and Rémy Martin) that collectively control 85 per cent of the category, what sets Rémy Martin apart is their insistence on selling only Fine Champagne Cognacs from the chalky soils of the Petite and Grande Champagne crus in the heart of the Bordeaux Region. The tour was interesting, educational and entertaining. Our guide explained the complex process of creating cognacs and the work that goes into developing the perfect taste and aroma, including the many years of training the master winemakers must undergo. We saw the cellars where the barrels were stored for aging and finished in the tasting room where we enjoyed several libations, including a cognac cocktail, served with varied accompaniments. Everyone was also encouraged to take their glass as a commemorative of the visit!
The Captain’s Welcome Reception took place that evening, during which time we were officially greeted by Ludovic Falezan, Master of the Vessel, who later introduced us to the various Department Heads who worked hard to make our cruise week a pleasant and memorable one. Following dinner, we were treated to a French Cancan Cabaret Evening performed by a singularly talented young lady. Unbeknownst to me, however, she had singled me out for some good-natured fun. While I was blissfully unaware, she snuck behind me and draped her frilly, ruffled skirt over my head while lifting it to the beat of the music, all to the amusement of the audience. I was soon able to better join in the fun when, after a costume change, she danced while seemingly wrapped only in feathers, but then skillfully and playfully took them to envelop another male passenger. We shared many laughs during her performance and all agreed that our first day aboard was exceptional.
The following day, the ship sailed about 14 miles northward to the left bank town of Cussac-Fort-Médoc. Before we docked in the late morning, two of us attended a lecture titled “Bordeaux During World War II.” This was especially interesting since we had visited the Normandy beaches and delved into D-Day history the prior week. The lecturer was Astride, a native of Germany who had also served as tour guide on our Rémy Martin visit the previous day. She explained that Nazi troops reached Bordeaux to begin their occupation on June 28, 1940. Within hours of arrival, the invading German army had set up checkpoints, requisitioned homes, unfurled Nazi flags, taken control of the port and set up gun emplacements. The French government was in Bordeaux to witness all of this, having fled Paris two weeks earlier on June 10. The port teemed with soldiers, and the city as a whole was crammed with refugees, many from northern France who had arrived on foot in fear of the occupying army sweeping them out of their homes. The population of the city swelled from 250,000 to one million people, putting further pressure on shops that were already being cleared out by German soldiers sending fabrics, jam, coffee, chocolate and cigarettes back home to their families. Exports of wine to Allied nations quickly became illegal, but making wine was enormously difficult as well. Not only had most working-age men been sent to fight, but equipment was increasingly hard to acquire. Glass bottles were scarce, corks scarcer still, and even the paper used to record harvests and yields became thinner and thinner. Throughout the occupation, the locals had to distill part of their wine – often a full half of their harvest – into fuel and industrial alcohol which the Germans demanded as solvents or as a basis for explosives. Bordeaux was liberated in August,1944.
That afternoon we toured the Château La Tour Carnet. What a fascinating place! Château La Tour Carnet is one of the oldest Bordeaux wine producers in the Médoc Region. In fact, some parts of the building, including the round tower, date back to the Eleventh Century and the estate is one of the few in Bordeaux to have a moat and drawbridge! Our guide first gave us a detailed overview of the estate’s seven centuries of winemaking. Next, we toured the wooden vat-house used for the fermentation of their red wines, followed by a visit to the barrel cellar, where the chateau’s wines are next aged for eighteen months. This led to our tasting four of their offerings, including one dry white, two reds and one dessert wine. The historic and well maintained main house is worthy of special mention here, particularly the two stately suites available for booking as well as the majestic dining room with seating for up to sixteen which may be reserved for meals prepared by a dedicated chef and served by your very own butler!
While we dined on Tuesday evening, the Bon Voyage set sail for its 52-mile journey to Cadillac, situated on the north bank of the Garonne River, arriving early in the morning on Wednesday. We had four more days to enjoy this wonderful region of France and I’ll tell you all about the balance of our vacation in a future post.
Until next time…safe travels.
Well written and very evocative - not sure how you remember all of this given the amount of alcohol involved in the excursions! 🍷