Ever since my wife read the New York Times bestseller by Mary Ann Shaffer and Annie Barrows,“The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society,” she wanted to visit the book’s locale. It takes place in the British dependency of Guernsey during the German occupation during the Second World War. The novel is a rather traditional love story to be sure, but more importantly, it’s the story of a small island community composed of very disparate people who came together during extremely difficult times to protect, comfort, and in some cases, save one another. Now, about the islands. Guernsey and Jersey are two of the Channel Islands and are separate, self-governing balliwicks. What this means is that while both are British Crown dependencies, neither is actually part of the United Kingdom. The islands have their own directly elected legislative assemblies, administrative, fiscal and legal systems and their own courts of law. We found an opportunity to visit these Channel Islands at the tail end of a business trip to London several years ago and I’d like to tell you all about that most interesting trip.
We were booked on a British Airways flight to Guernsey direct from Gatwick Airport so we taxied to Victoria Station and connected there with the Gatwick Express. This 30-minute, high-frequency rail passenger service runs between Central London and the airport. After receiving our boarding passes at premium check-in, we made our way to the BA Club Lounge in the South Terminal. With sweeping views of the runway, this spacious lounge featured decent dining, a bar, complimentary Wi-fi, washrooms, showers and a children’s play area. Stylish feature walls separated the area into dedicated spaces to work, dine or relax. Our flying time aboard the Airbus A319 was just over an hour but, despite the brief time aloft, we enjoyed a full beverage service and a nice mid-day snack, setting down shortly after 1:00 in the afternoon. Despite the fact that the Channel Islands are closer to France than Great Britain, they observe Greenwich Mean Time so there was no need to reset our watches.
Saint Peter Port is the main town on the island and it was only a short ten-minute taxi ride from the airport to our hotel. We booked into the Old Government House Hotel & Spa. The only luxury, five-star hotel on the island, the historic Old Government House sits proudly just up the hill from the main shopping street and is only a five-minute walk from the quayside. This hotel is as popular today as when it first opened in 1858. And although the property retains its charming Victorian character and timeless style, it delivers a wholly 21st-century experience for service, convenience and comfort.
There’s no shortage of fine bars and good restaurants here either. The plush and cozy bar at The Crown Club has a very traditional and opulent feel, with red leather banquette seating and a wealth of antique brass fittings and also features a glass-walled wine and whisky-tasting room. The Centenary Bar is an intimate space that opens out onto an al fresco space with fine-weather views across the water to the Island of Herm. Its bar and cocktail list includes a fine selection of malt whiskies, gins, vodkas and locally-made drinks. The Old Government House also offers guests a choice of three choices for dining. The Brasserie Restaurant overlooks the hotel’s peaceful, private gardens and the Saint Peter Port harbor beyond and is the place to relax over steaks and fresh Guernsey seafood, accompanied by live piano music in the evenings. The intimate Curry Room for Indian cuisine is adorned with pictures and memorabilia of the island’s past Governors and finally, The Olive Grove, with great sea views, is the only restaurant garden in the city and the perfect spot for a summer breakfast or afternoon tea.
The German occupation of the Channel Islands lasted for most of World War II, from June 30, 1940 until their liberation on May 9, 1945. Anticipating a swift victory over Britain, the occupying German forces initially experimented by using a relatively modest approach to the non-Jewish population, supported by local collaborators. However, as time progressed, the situation grew gradually worse, leading to forced labor, mass deportations and ending in near starvation for both occupied and occupiers during the winter of 1944. When it became clear that conquering Britain would be impossible, Hitler issued orders to convert the Channel Islands into an impregnable fortress as part of his infamous "Atlantic Wall", heavily fortifying the only British territory he would ever conquer. By 1944 Guernsey’s coastline was covered in concrete fortifications. Hundreds of reinforced bunkers, gun emplacements and tunnels were constructed, transforming the tiny archipelago into the most fortified place on earth. A colossal 8% of the entire Atlantic Wall’s concrete was poured into the Islands and they held more guns than the neighboring 600 miles of Normandy coastline. We visited the La Vallette Underground Military Museum that covers Guernsey's military history, including the German occupation. Set in a complex of air-conditioned tunnels built by German forces as a fuel storage facility for their U-Boats, the museum features various military and occupation memorabilia. As a history buff, I was happy to explore the wide variety of exhibitions, displays and information about this impactful time.
We later took time to explore the little harbor town of Saint Peter Port. With no added taxes and the many attractive shops positioned along its cobble-stoned streets, the town is a haven for would-be shoppers. In the center of St Peter Port where most of Guernsey's shops are located, you can buy everything from UK brands, designer fashions and high class jewelry to unique, locally-made goods that most likely can’t be found anywhere else. The beautiful port town is wonderfully compact and we found it easy to navigate the shopping district on foot.
Wanting to explore outside of town, we booked an Island Coachways half-day tour around the island which offered full commentary by our accredited driver and guide. The tour started at the Liberation Monument in the heart of town, dedicated in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the island’s freedom. We took a scenic drive through town and stopped off to admire views of the neighboring islands of Havelet Bay. We then drove to The Little Chapel. Originally built in 1914, the chapel is known for being one of the smallest in the world. From there, we traveled to Pleinmont and Point where we admired stunning views of the south coast and visited the restored German gun battery. After a stop at the Guernsey Pearl for refreshments, our guide took us for a drive around the west coast to visit some of the island’s favorite beaches, including Grandes Rocques and Pembroke Bay with our tour then coming to an end as it finished back in Saint Peter Port.
On our last day in town, we took the one hour, high-speed ferry to Jersey operated by Condor Ferries. At 45.5 square miles, Jersey is the largest of the Channel Islands. It boasts a wealth of culture, scenery, and heritage within its coastline, and has some of Britain’s best beaches lining its shores. Sitting in the bay of St Malo, Jersey is only 14 miles away from the French coast, and 85 miles from the English coast, making it a sun trap and one of the hottest destinations in the British Isles. Jersey’s capital, Saint Helier, is a lively and buzzing port filled with more tax-free shops and restaurants. Before the return ferry ride back to Guernsey, we stopped for a bite to eat and I sampled some of the delicious Anglo-French cuisine, including some fresh seafood and locally grown Jersey potatoes.
We flew back to London on British Airways and spent another night in the capital city before heading home the following day. Our visit to Guernsey and Jersey allowed us to see yet another part of the world while enjoying the hospitality and absorbing the unique history of the Channel Islands.
Until next time…safe travels.
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